Summary: 2001 Dodge MPG & Cuts out

Solution:


Thanks for your Email message.


Sounds like there may be 2 or 3 possible causes for these problems. The Dodge truck has an engine ECM (electronic control module) as well as a Dodge ECM that controls the fueling of the truck. A problem with the engine cutting out could be one of these ECM's malfunctioning and would need to be checked out by a Dodge dealer. It could be something in the ignition wiring system of the truck as well. We suspect that whatever is wrong is also affecting MPG.


We must advise that it is almost impossible for us to troubleshoot engine problems by email. There are sometimes many factors that affect the determination of what is causing a certain problem or engine function. Many times there are other contributing factors that are forgotten or not mentioned that could have a direct bearing on what might have happened with an engine or component.


The person or persons on the scene are best able to compare all the facts, look at the parts or other information and determine why a particular phenomenon or engine function has occurred. Therefore, we are not in a position to make failure analysis or troubleshoot engine problems by email and suggest you consult work with the Dodge people towards resolution.


There are several possibilities that could affect the power, such as fuel pump timing, restricted fuel lines, air entrapment into the fuel from a loose fitting, connection or fuel filter, air intake restriction, turbocharger problem, etc.. It is almost impossible for us to trouble shoot low power by email since there are many systems to consider.


Since we build the diesel engines for Dodge and they supply all the other components to build the trucks, we are not in a position to speak for Dodge on expected MPG figures on Dodge trucks. We have been advised that Dodge does not publish MPG figures for the diesel-powered trucks. We know how much fuel the engine will burn, under full load, on the engine dynamometer, which is measured in pounds per horsepower hour, but when the engine is installed into a chassis, those figures no longer apply, due to the various chassis components and factors cited above.


Again, there are several variables involved that relate to fuel mileage and since the engine is only one part of the equation, it is very difficult to predict mpg on any specific vehicle. There are several factors such as rpm, speed, wind, aerodynamics, load, transmission, rear axle ratio, tire size, 4x4, driver habits, etc., that really have more affect on MPG, than the engine. You might ask yourself over what driving distances you made your determination, and under what conditions?


A diesel engine (particularly with an automatic transmission), will "feel" sluggish compared to a gasoline engine. The turbocharger takes a few seconds to reach full boost pressure and reach maximum torque; but this is only a transient condition.


Also, we know that a 4 x4 truck with automatic transmission is the worst case fuel economy set up. The newer Dodge Ram pickups are nearly 2,000 lbs. heavier than the earliest variants with the older Cummins engine. A 4 x4 sits up higher and has more aerodynamic drag under the vehicle than the 2-WD.


For the older Dodge trucks, we have talked with hundreds of owners and they have told us MPG figures from 8 to 28 mpg, depending on the above variables. The guy getting 8 mpg was very upset that he could not run 80 MPH, with 35,000 pounds gross weight. On the other end of the spectrum, we tend to question 28 mpg, but believe many are getting in the low to mid 20s (empty). A sudden increase in fuel consumption might indicate a plugged air filter, if there is excessive black smoke or possibly an automatic transmission problem.


>From what other customers have told us, a two-wheel drive, single wheel truck could expect mileage to be 15 to 20 mpg (empty/no heavy load) running at normal highway speeds (some models and conditions may do better). Loaded or pulling a trailer, the mileage may drop to the 10 to 15 mpg range. Duallies and 4 wheel drives or running above normal highway speeds or pulling excessive loads can reduce these figures considerably.


Remember, power required for increases in vehicle speed above about 60 mph increase geometrically, in fact by the third power (aero effects alone increase by a squared function, then multiply by rolling resistance which increases about linearly). The newer trucks, being heavier, don't do as well; the new engine is at least as efficient, and more so in some cases. But it doesn't look like we have to concern ourselves with 60 mph right now, except when you're running empty.


As mentioned above, a faulty automatic transmission in the Dodge application could cause a perceived low power condition. For example if the engine rpm lowers as road speed has decreased, we would suspect a problem with the transmission downshifting rather than the engine having low power. Also, diesels run at lower RPM than gasoline engines; we are assuming that you are not downshifting and trying to run at rated (governed) speed but letting the mid-range torque pull the vehicle. Diesels get notably poorer fuel efficiency when running at/near the high RPM range of the power curve (still, much better than gas by the way).


If your son needs assistance along the way, feel free to use our Service Locator on our website to locate a Cummins dealer or distributor.


We thank you for your interest in Cummins products. Please let us know if you need assistance in locating the nearest Cummins-authorized Dealer or Distributor Service Provider. For assistance in locating a Service Provider, feel free to use Cummins North America Dealer Locator, which can be found on Cummins website:
http://www.cummins.com/service_locator/index.cfm


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2001 diesel 2500 quad cab. auto,4 wheel drive 3:55 gears
2001 sport short box 5.3 auto

 

WOW! I am impressed with the extent of the answer, if not with the specifics.

 

That was nice of them to give so much information out.

 

disappointed is about all i can feel.
took it in to a cummins dealer yesterday and was told the truck was doing all it can do.
they put it on a dyno and computer equip and run every test the y have available to run and the verdict was that is is doing all it is capable of doing.
could not have ask for better treatment or more thorouness. seemed to think it is the wind drag that is causing my problems. said that the "dirty radiator "could have been the "cutting out" problem. They said they have experienced that problem quite frequently with the overflo bottle being mounted up front and suggested i route the tube back to the rear.
going to put in a box (blue chip) is what they recomended

 

this is link to the chip the cummins folks recomended when i asked them about the ez edge (they do not sell or install them)
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/

 

Herb: Could you post a pic of your setup that gives you these problems? Over here we sometimes experienced problems like these when changing the vehicle pulling a trailer, especially if the vehicle got a longer bed. It seemed that there was a kind of a buildup of a long turbulence zone that increased wind drag massively. Customers complained that with the new towing vehicle, even though it had more power it wouldn't tow like the old one. In some cases a roof spoiler solved the problem, in other cases simply changing the angle of the deflector on the trailer had good effects. We used engine torque measuring to determine wind drag for on the road conditions and found that even small changes could well net 30-40% difference in wind drag at higher speeds with some combinations. (Especially if the trailer was relatively far behind the cab).

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

 

Have you tried hauling that same load without the deflector on the trailer? That thing is huge and resembles a sail on a boat!! Just curious if you've tried it without it? From the picture, it doesn't look like that buggy on the upper deck has anywhere near the frontal area that the deflector does. Sure looks to me like the deflector would INCREASE drag quite considerable compared to the frontal area of that buggy.



Also, since the side edges of the deflector are just an abrupt sharp end, I could see that thing creating a pretty substainal turbulent zone behind which could add even more to the drag. Drag due to wind resistance is a function of velocity and increases exponentially with velocity.

 

My truck is basically the same as yours except mine is a 5 spd. I am a really happy camper since I installed my Edge EZ.
I don't know what kind of trailer you pull, but my Edge made a lot of difference loaded and unloaded. Be sure to add gauges and minor mods to your trans.

 

we always drop the wind deflecter as soon as we drop our first carriage and am able to take the top carriage down. you certainly can tell the difference after you drop it but we still have a lot of wind drag .
each carrige presents its own wind drag . the more we remove from the trailer the better it gets. runs good with empty trailer.
the wind deflector is tipped back as far as we can allow and it is v shaoed accross the front.
any feedback on the blue chip vx the edge?

 

Herb,
Have you tried lowering the position of the wind deflector by about two feet? I think this would present a smoother flow for air coming off the top of your truck cab. In its present position a lot of air will go down behind the cab and create a lot of turbulence and drag.

 

extend it down two feet or drop the present deflector two feet?
seems i would want the height i have to direct the air over the buggy?

 

Herb, that's a LOT of wind resistance to push down the highway.

You need a fueling box!

The Edge EZ works REAL well on your SO engine, and will wake that truck right up.

If you can't borrow one to try out, I think if you buy direct from Edge they offer 30 days money back satisfaction.

 

I still think that the frontal area of the buggy on the top deck is much less than the frontal area of the deflector. I think the deflector is hurting you more than it is helping. Try running your full load configuration without the deflector and compare that to running with the deflector.

 

HAD IT AT A CUMMINS DEALER YESTERDAY TO GET IT DYNO'ED AND THEY RECOMMENDED THE BLUE CHIP BOX ?
IS ONE BETTER THAN THE OTHER. MECANIC THERE SAID THE BLUE CHIP WAS BETTER.
NOT INTENDING TO BE YELLING (JUST NOTICED THE CAPS)

 

Herb,
Drop the present deflector down about two feet.

Is the reason for the deflector to keep bugs off the carriages?
Just curious.

Most deflectors for wind drag work best mounted on the truck at the rear of the cab.