Ram_SRT-10

well i have been on the phone with the belzona rep in ontario canada he seem pretty convinced that the product belzona 1111 will seal the crack i am goin to try it the cost of the product is 251.25 can plus 13% sales tax i will keep you guys posted

TNutcher

Hows the repair on the block going? Curious to see how well it works and how difficult it is to repair. I have the same issue, loc-n-stitch held for 8 months now a bigger crack has formed further back in the block.... weighing other options. Thanks and good luck!
TNutcher

1-5-3-6-2-4

I've used Belzona lots over the years and still do. I will say that would be a temporary fix at best. just counting the time until it leaks again.

TNutcher

I was able to do the loc-n-stitch myself last time, it was in a fairly easy location and was able to get it all, but this time its a good 6 inch crack nearer #5 and 6, thinking on trying something new and easier. Curious with JB Weld/Belzona fixes, does the crack come back elsewhere or does it re-crack where the repair covered the original? I know my repair held, but the block cracked again, to the rear of my repair; would the Belzona do the same or would the repair itself fail? Thanks and sorry, not trying to hijack the thread. Hope your repair is going well!
TNutcher

Ram_SRT-10

update on the belzona didnt work at all didnt slow it down or anything waste of time and money

slowflyer2112

I'm planning on using Block filler when I get my car running and my brothers truck gets repaired, My truck is a 53 block and no leaks yet. I'm planning on pulling the freeze plugs, cleaning and drying it out thoroughly and filling the bottom about a 1/2 to 1 inch and letting it cure for a month. then I'll put the freeze plugs back in and pray.
I talked to some people who race and they told me that they have a truck that has the whole block filled and they only flow coolant through the head and drive it around from time to time with no issues. He said that he wouldn't tow with it but he thinks that what I want to do should work. and I shouldn't have any issues.

1-5-3-6-2-4

The problem with the 53 casting is core shift.

If you pull a passenger side freeze plug, measure the wall thickness at the bottom of the hole. If you're .250" you're good to go. The casting is not flawed and you can beat it like the redheaded step child.

If its significantly less than that, then you have a right to be worried about a crack.


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rickf

I was just researching a cast iron welding job I have to do and I came across an article about repairing "53" blocks. Here is a link.
http://www.muggyweld.com/53block.html
You may have seen it before, if so I am sorry.

Rick

1-5-3-6-2-4

those items he listed are the circumstances that cause the block crack. But again the ones that actually crack are the ones with core shift from bad casting, that have thin wall on the passenger side.

It's not black magic or bad luck, its where the 53 blocks were cast with poor quality control. That's why no other B cummins block casting shows this crack issue. Nothing to do with the application or horsepower rating.

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olddodgetrucks

welding with heating part to be welded works best or weld in small stiches,weld shoud never get hotter than you can touch it with your finger,many tractors welded in midwest because farmers did not add antifreeze.Seen may welded with brass,still holding 50yrs later ,never tryed welding with brass.

dkenny

how are they welding with brass?
i'm curious here..i'm not a welder. but do understand problems welding with cast iron..its hard and brittle.
are the arc welding or brazing?

-dkenny

diggerfan99

Had mine welded with cast iron rod by a professional welder and a friend of mine. There are many variables in the situation. One like you said, is the temp of the weld and cast. Second, the position of the crack on the block is very difficult to get to, even when removing the fender, turbo, etc. That being said, most cast iron welding rods are not " out of position rods" meaning that they don't work as well when you don't have it on a bench looking down at it. When it is in the truck and you have to make vertical welds the rod is runny and is hard to get it to make a perfect bead. Also, remember that antifreeze is a contaminant and gets deep into the pours of the metal and even when you clean it before you weld, you are still welding metal that is unclean. The guy that welded my engine has close to 15 hours in it, did an awesome job, but I won't lie, it seeps a little on the vertical welds so I have to add to the overflow bottle about every 2 weeks or 350 miles. Worlds apart from the leak I had. The fix was done 4 years ago, I have learned to live with a little leak. Also, I was friends with the guy and the work was done no charge.