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Clutch for pulling & street use?

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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #16  
J Lent's Avatar
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From: East Millsboro, PA.
Originally Posted by afoulk
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe getblown5.9 has, or had a 3850 in his truck, making well over 550hp, and I've watched him pull a few times, and trust me, he abuses that clutch I've never heard him mention on here that he had any problems with it holding up.
I'm only planning on between 500-550hp someday, and might try sled pulling a few times, but not much. I think I'm gonna go with a 3850 just to be on the safe side.
He was referring to the 3250.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 03:38 PM
  #17  
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From: Schaefferstown, PA
Stuckey had mentioned that his 3850 had slipped though and I was kinda surprised by that.
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 05:18 PM
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From: Sheldon, Iowa
If I'm gonna spend $1800 on a clutch I would like it to last 3-4 years. I'm only trying for 500hp max anyway. And like JLent when the sled starts moving I let the clutch all the way out and flatfoot it. I got 12 pulls on a $300 Luks clutch thats still going. But I know that it wont hold when I do my upgrades. I just want to do this right once and not have to worry about the clutch for a while.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 08:59 PM
  #19  
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Im in the same boat!, gonna get in on the DD clutch deal going on over on anther site though.....
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #20  
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From: East Millsboro, PA.
Originally Posted by LUKE-MM-PULLER
If I'm gonna spend $1800 on a clutch I would like it to last 3-4 years. I'm only trying for 500hp max anyway. And like JLent when the sled starts moving I let the clutch all the way out and flatfoot it. .
I hold my throttle to the floor the whole time that I pull. Just feather the clutch until I see the boost peg & the load starts moving & dump it. I can't tell a difference in the clutch since it was new. Most guys just ride them for to long & burn them up, that is why some guys can put a 3850 DD in & only get 20 hooks, but another guy gets 50 hooks.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 09:42 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LUKE-MM-PULLER
I get about 20 hooks a year so maybee the 3250 wouldnt be what I need. But I only put on 12k a year so still should probably keep it in mind.
At 500hp (eventually) and 20+ hooks a year, you'll be looking at rebuilding a DD every year or so. You need a 3850 DD for that. You have to ride the clutch some if you want to be competitive at least around here.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 10:46 AM
  #22  
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From: CYNTHIANA, KY
Originally Posted by haloman
At 500hp (eventually) and 20+ hooks a year, you'll be looking at rebuilding a DD every year or so. You need a 3850 DD for that. You have to ride the clutch some if you want to be competitive at least around here.
That was my problem at the end of the year. At 500-550 hp pulling 4th lo and 2nd hi I just give the clutch long enough to let the tires turn maybe one time and then drop it, but the throttle is to the floor from start to end. I gave peter 1200 dollars to rebuild my 3250 to a 3850 full feramic pulling clutch. I could slip the clutch after probably 4-6 pulls. Took it out and it was to late, pads were done cracked and falling apart.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 06:11 PM
  #23  
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From: Sheldon, Iowa
So I guess its the 3850 then if I want it to last more than a year.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 07:30 PM
  #24  
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From: East Millsboro, PA.
Originally Posted by LUKE-MM-PULLER
So I guess its the 3850 then if I want it to last more than a year.
That is the safest route for pulling, but my bro has a 3600DD & his clutch will hurt your leg in stop & go traffic. He was snow plowing with it today & had to take a break because the clutch was putting a hurting on his leg. He is a 280lb. guy. That is the only reason that I prefer the lighter pedal, we work our trucks daily.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 09:47 PM
  #25  
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From: Sheldon, Iowa
Originally Posted by J Lent
That is the safest route for pulling, but my bro has a 3600DD & his clutch will hurt your leg in stop & go traffic. He was snow plowing with it today & had to take a break because the clutch was putting a hurting on his leg. He is a 280lb. guy. That is the only reason that I prefer the lighter pedal, we work our trucks daily.
Considering I live in a small town and dont do a whole lot of stop and go I think I can live with a little stiffer pedal, and I only drive 6 miles to work everyday. So what do you think feramic or ceramic button? Anyone know how hard it is to put the hydraulic upgrade in?
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 01:37 AM
  #26  
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From: fredericksburg, virginia
The ceramic would be smoother while the feramic will be more grabby, but would handle the heat a bit better. Mines a 3600 12CB and I have to agree with JLent that it can be a chore if you have to stand on it for a while. Since you want to pull I'd say just get the 3850 12FB.

Compared to getting a nv5600 back in, the hydraulics are a piece of cake =P The ones sbc uses are a sealed system so its an easy install.
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 07:34 PM
  #27  
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From: Sheldon, Iowa
Well I have an NV4500 so it should be really easy right?
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