stlhauler

Hi Everyone,I wanted to get some other opinions. A while back (2yrs) I had an issue getting my truck in gear, I had to shut it off--put it in and restart. drove it home, seemed to shift ok . now the other day got in and started down the road and seems really notchy feeling shifting into next gear. Coming to a stop it has a chatter like feeling and doesn't seem to be disengaging, hard to get in gear but will go with some force. So I figured it was time for a clutch & PP. Next time driving it felt fine (a little notchy when shifting). So it kind of comes and goes. No noises, not slipping. I read some other posts that say possibly the shaft bearing, or hydro's. I wanted you guy's to help me diagnose the problem

totalloser

If it's hit and miss, I'd say hydraulics. Mechanical parts in the clutch tend to be pretty consistent.

I'll also note that hydraulics are pretty easy to do compared to pulling the trans, and if you do need a clutch, new hydros are a good idea to protect the new clutch, so kinda hard to go wrong.

SIXSLUG

Yeah, I agree with totalloser.

If its blocker rings (synchro's) or something mech. it would be constant.

stlhauler

Thank you for the responses! Thats kinda what I was thinking too. I'll post up the results when I get the hydro's in.

totalloser

If you still have problems with it afterwards *and* have the small shaft 5600 with a 12.25" clutch I might suspect a wrinkled clutch backing. The stamped steel that extends past the hub to support the friction lining is a weak link. I *think* you'd need more than the comp box to wrinkle the 13" clutch.

stlhauler

Well decided to pull the tranny today, I figured even if the hydro's were bad I really had no clue how old the clutch was. WOW, sure glad I did!!! The clutch disk is falling apart. center disk is toast, springs ready to fall out. also input shaft bearing is shot, I hope I caught it in time. Thank's for all the replies

totalloser

Oh wow. I'd consider at least a modest upgrade on the clutch assuming the input bearing hasn't taken anything else out. Valiar's "upgraded" organic lining 13" is holding fine on mine, and I think the PP is almost the same as stock clamping force. Basically a stock clutch without the weak hub. http://valairinc.com/performance/24nv5600.html Holding 400ish hp at the crank for $370.

Oh and *full synthetic* only in that 5600, and an extra quart in through the top pto hole or the shift tower. Keeps them bearings cool. Might have saved the input bearing, I think there's another one in there that benefits from the extra quart, too. 'Course the input bearing is ALWAYS loaded except when in fifth, so it takes a bit more abuse than other shaft bearings.

stlhauler

I have the 1.250 input shaft, the link you put in show's the 1.375. or did I read that wrong? also Pennzoil syncho-mesh ok?

drafalske

I believe Pennzoil Sychromesh is the factory fill for the 5600.
I like Redline MTL in mine.

D

dieselfreak21

The synchromesh is for the 4500, the 5600 actually calls for 5w30 synthetic motor oil last I looked.