blh1960

I am looking for help from anybody that can shed some light. I was loosing antifreeze at a rather slow rate. Did not get to excited at first until I read the post about the casting 53 block.
Stamey's problem is now mine. I search google for 53 info and got Stamey's website. Since I am out of warranty (112k) and mildly bombed I will need to look at repairing my 53, and or swapping the block. Talk about ruining your weekend. I already have e-mailed customer service at Cummins. Anybody have any ideas. The Muggy welding (www.muggyweld.com)option is the best so far that I have read about. Someone mention it in a post. I need to find somebody in the Midwest that would feel they could be successful at that option. The other thought was using a high tech epoxy. I was going to post this on the help post, but felt there is nothing anybody is going to do real quik. Please...I need some ideas.

blh1960
Missouri

Rain Man

Look in the classified section under third gen and there is a complete engine listed for $ 5,500.00. Possibility maybe.

Tazman

blh,

Shouldn't be a problem to find a welder with the experiance (read guts) to take that job on.

Check with your local union hall or maybe there's a speed shop (cart builder) near you.

Just a thought.

I know a couple of pipeline welders on the east coast that I would gladly foot the airfare for if/when it's my turn.

Good Luck, keep posting

blh1960

Hello,

I have found welder's that can do this. None that will attempt it with the engine in place. This will create quite of expense if I pull the motor. Somebody somewhere has done this...I'm sure. I think that Cummins knowing they have problem should come with a fix. These were faulty from the gitgo. It disturbs me to think that they would let that go. There should have been a recall for these. I am sick to my stomach about the whole thing!

Brian
Missouri

blh1960

I called Cummins. According to their website, customer service is of utmost concern. All I can say is Merry Christmas! They took my information and will relay to the concerned parties. A little prayer would not hurt right now!

BLH1960

Stamey

Good luck there!!
I was in the same spot this time last year. I know where you are coming from.

If you decide to go with the welding, I would think they could do the weld inside the eingine compartment. Once you pull the turbo and exhaust manifold it's wide open in there. I'm sure you wouldn't have a problem pulling even a fender if necessary, because that would be easier than pulling the engine.
You could get in there and groove the block out as necessary and let the welder draw the beads down it.
I'd still drill the ends of the crack to keep it from speading.

Chris

Dave65

I had the 53 block also,,never had any problems in 120000 miles.
But I know I read somewhere were it was fixed with some grinding and some heavy metal strips,kinda like a band aid,welded the strips over the crack after it had been grinded out into a V shape and the strips put over the crack,and it held.
Any body remember that?

Dave65

Here is something I found,I will try to find the other I was talking about.

http://dieselram.com/cgi-bin/ultimat...c;f=2;t=001580

Dave65

http://www.r-f.com/crackpch.htm

Another

Dave65

One more..

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...cked+block+fix

BIGBADBOB

So after reading those links do you think a person should run an additive to the coolant? The one link refered to cavitation being a possible aid to the cause. And what percentage of the 53's crack? Seems like a very low percentage, maybe 2%?

Tazman

Good question BBB,

I'm sold on the Evans Cool product and will be doing early in the new year.

blh1960

Received an e-mail back from Cummins. Same song and dance! They want me to take it up with Dodge. But...after reading all the feedback I am convinced that it can be fixed. I just got off the phone with a Muggyweld employee. He says the calls are pouring in about this 53 flaw. He says it seems to be mostly the 1999's. His method has been successful with folks using the 77 product. Gosh, you would think with all the problems associatied with this... that it could hurt Cummins reputation! Anyway...right now the leak is not that bad. It seems to have stopped with Bars sealant. Temporary fix, I would venture to say. If it holds I will probably just leave it alone. The scary thought is that it could crack any time under load and spill my coolant. Hopefully it will hold until the spring when I have the weather to deal with it. If anybody has a lead in the midwest (Kansas City area) for doing the quick muggyweld repair or the epoxy method of repair. I would be more then grateful in hearing it. My friend who grew up on a large farm says to throw sealent in there and quit worrying. He told me to deal we only if that does not take care of it. I guess I just worry way to much! 10 grand will do that to you! Thanks for the ideas. Keep them pouring in.

Brian
Missouri

Idaho Guy

So customer service of of "utmost concern", eh? Right up to the point where they are faced with a known flaw in their engine blocks and then it's everyone for themselves!

Good info on the muggyweld, Brian - thanks. If mine ever does crack (knock on wood), I'll probably pursue that avenue.

Copenhagenjunkie

Three pictures of Dale Jarett and now Bars. I hope you don't get hamered to bad about that. Personally I think that stuff kills engines.