24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Bye bye fuel problems

Old 03-26-2004, 12:24 PM
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Originally posted by Dieseldude4x4
I can answer a few questions if you like.

I filled mine up to the bottom of the vent tube the other night just to see how much it does recirc. It was moving a stream of fuel about half the size of a pencil diameter and it was not not steady at that. The recirc from the pump ties into a Tee fitting you install in the rubber hose on the tank vent.

Cost in the $600 range depending on where you get it. (I've already spent more than that on four lift pumps)

The FASS comes with a replacement snap lock fitting that hooks up very easily to the stock suction tube coming out of the tank.

All the new supply and return fittings are push on type. (we added hose clamps and a place to tie the pressure gauge into)

The FASS comes with a wiring harness already made up that plugs right into the stock harness up front. It also includes a 15 amp in line fuse that goes back by the tank. I think the paperwork says 12 amps.

It makes no more noise than the stock pump before the engine starts and the water seperator and the filter are in a location that can be changed out in about two minutes flat.

I have a few pics if you would like to see them. Hope this helps.

Joel

Staying in order with the reply above...

A not steady stream about the size of a pencil diameter is what the pump is returning at idle? That doesn't sound like it would be that big of an aid in heating the fuel in my 32 gallon tank in cold conditions. However, I was wanting to know the pump's rated fuel per gallon or minute in my earlier question. As we all know the VP44 bypasses the most fuel at WOT. Several signatures list they are running DD2's. Even with a fueling box running at max 63% the flow required to feed the DD2's in the real world is probably somewhere around .8 to .9 gallons per minute. So it's obvious the pump is supplying over 60 gallons per hour. I take it that the pump ratings like amps, gallons per hour, and running pressure weren't included with the pump.

The cost is $600

The replacement fitting hooks up to the stock tank fitting. As I mentioned earlier the stock fitting ID is less than 5/16" or AN6 size line. Which means that the AN8 size lines in this case arn't a factor with the flow.

You had to cut in a TEE fitting for pressure. So the new system doesn't come with a pressure port.

It comes with a 15 amp fuse. Does it come with a relay or is it hardwired into the OEM wiring?

It makes no more noise than stock.

Originally all I was getting at was not to go around the stock filter. Another benefit with the stock filter is the indication light in the dash it gives when moisture is detected. Does your water seperator give a indication too?

Thanks for answering my questions so far Joel,

Opie
Old 03-26-2004, 12:43 PM
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I've been around diesels for about 10 years now. And never once have I ever encountered water in my fuel. Now, maybe this is because he farthest north I travel is southeast oklahoma and I only do that during christmas. Or maybe it's because I live in southeast Texas. Who knows. But water in fuel has never been a problem with me. I've never gotten a drop of water out of my relief valve.
Old 03-26-2004, 12:59 PM
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opie -

the harness plugs right into the stock lift pump plug, and does not use a relay. I just had mine installed last night and we plumbed it through my stock filter. i figured that it couldnt hurt to go through it, i get another filter, water seperator, and a heater. I also wanted to know if i had water in my fuel as the FASS has no provisons to let you know when that situation arises.

I love this system!! 16 psi WOT with a new race pump
Old 03-26-2004, 01:21 PM
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Some of the peicil sized stream may be going the other way in the Tee, I have no way to verify that. The pencil stream was just what I saw coming out of the vent tube and draining back down into the tank.

The wiring harness as mentioned plugs right in the the factory plug up front.

It does not have a port up front for fuel pressure but does back at the pump.

Here is the direct link to the pump. Has color pics and dimensions too.

http://www.dieselpp.com/

I am not affiliated with these people in any way, I am merely trying to let every one know that I am sick of stock lift pumps and that this system works.
Old 03-26-2004, 01:46 PM
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Originally posted by OPIE
Haulin_in_Dixie,

Cool, I am glad your happy. If you don't mind I have some questions for you.

What are you going to do with what you refer to as being the restrictive fuel assemble? If memory serves the input and output ports are the 12mm weber style fittings.

You mention the high fuel return rate. How many gallons per hour does your new system pump?

Since you brought it up how much did it cost?

Did you modify your fuel tank supply fitting? As a AN8 line would be too big to fit the roughly 5/16" OEM supply fitting at the tank.

Is the AN8 line the braided type with the Aeroquip type fittings?

How many amps does your new system draw? Are you running it off of your existing pump wiring?

Do you think Dodge would have any problem with someone trying to use their engine warranty when they notice the entire fuel filter assemble was missing?

I know I don't carry any weight with you but I do appreciate your reply's.

Opie
Opie, I am a very outspoken person, say things roughly and right out, bad characteristic. I disagree with a statement you made, not with you as a person. Sorry if I indicated different. Also email posts lack emotion and sometimes conveys the wrong sentiment.

I don't have measurements on the return fuel to the tank or the pump output, but can only say that it is multiple times the necessary amount to run any mod on the engine. The return is such that with the engine running it will return enough that you cannot fuel with the engine running. The VP44 return would be as stock I am sure. I have no idea where "smaller than a pencil" comes from, certainly not the FASS return.


I paid $580 and change for the FASS with relay powered wiring harness, tee for the fuel pressure gage, all fuel hose and fittings.

It comes supplied with a quick connect fuel pickup fitting that I will be eliminating, not sure it is sealing all the time.

So far as Dodge not fulfilling warranty with the unit installed, I don't know. I had near 200,000 on mine so it was not a concern. I would guess that you may have problems with the VP44 warranty.

I am not sure of the actual amps draw, but the unit will run from the stock harness so it cannot be that high. I feel more comfortable going around the stock PCM driven feed.

A very good feed system is to pick up the ASD wire coming out of the power box under the hood and run a wire direct to the pump from it, no fuse necessary, it is already fused and the sequence is the same as the stock harness except for the low power setting.

How much fuel may be demonstrated by the fact that you can change the large fuel filter, put it on dry and bump the starter a couple of times to fill it up, then start the truck.

I just ran 1000 miles since the first post. I took notice of the temperatures and economy. Yes, at 50 degrees and below the economy fell off, back to 80 today and the power was up some and the economy back to normal. You made a good point that I did not know.

The FASS unit has a machined in heater assy that is practical for hooking up heater hoses to heat the fuel. I believe it needs it. The return is such that I would bet it will heat the tank also.

If a WIF indicator is necessary for your uses I am sure that some time spent at a truck parts counter or catalogs would produce a water separator that had it on it such as ISC and other larger engines use.

If it were my "in warranty" truck, I probably would run through the original filter to satisfy the Dodge people, but I would change the lines between it and the VP44 to the larger lines.

The lines supplied are push on lines such as is used on big truck installations. They are roughly 3/8 internal diameter. They are soft and easy to route.

As another FASS user on the board did I drilled out the fitting at the VP44 to a larger size.
Old 03-26-2004, 04:34 PM
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What would you guys do "IF" the pump goes out on the FASS? It's not like you have a spare, you'd be stuck whereever till they mailed you a replacement. It would really be bad if you were out in the middle of nowhere USA making a 30 minutes lift pump change sound good as your waiting days for a pump to arrive to you.

Just a thought, I realize it's rated for long life, but so are alot of other things and they go out when you don't expect it.
Old 03-26-2004, 05:35 PM
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Originally posted by pcab4
What would you guys do "IF" the pump goes out on the FASS? It's not like you have a spare, you'd be stuck whereever till they mailed you a replacement. It would really be bad if you were out in the middle of nowhere USA making a 30 minutes lift pump change sound good as your waiting days for a pump to arrive to you.

Just a thought, I realize it's rated for long life, but so are alot of other things and they go out when you don't expect it.
Great point!
Old 03-26-2004, 09:10 PM
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Originally posted by pcab4
What would you guys do "IF" the pump goes out on the FASS? It's not like you have a spare, you'd be stuck whereever till they mailed you a replacement. It would really be bad if you were out in the middle of nowhere USA making a 30 minutes lift pump change sound good as your waiting days for a pump to arrive to you.

Just a thought, I realize it's rated for long life, but so are alot of other things and they go out when you don't expect it.
"Great point!"

Thats when you reach over the fuel tank, re-connect the the original oem suction line that is still connected to the oem lift pump (which is why people that plan ahead have left theirs in place). Then you disconnect the Fass connection that goes to the oem fuel filter/heater & re-connect the original line from the original pump, unplug the extension power & plug in the oem pump connector, cycle the key 3 times, and start the motor and drive home.

Anymore questions?
Old 03-26-2004, 09:23 PM
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Well lets see, if the new brushes don't bring it up, which is doubtful being an open standard motor... If you are really stuck I guess a quick stop at any parts store and an aftermarket pump spliced into the feed line, a little bailing wire and some wire splices. But the pump should outlast the truck in most cases. We are not talking about an internal motor pump with a rubber impeller.
Old 03-26-2004, 11:28 PM
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I give up.............
Old 03-26-2004, 11:43 PM
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Originally posted by Dieseldude4x4
I give up.............
Didn't like me backyard ingenuity huh.... Jeez and I didn't mention the five gallon can on the hood gravity feeding the vp44
Old 03-26-2004, 11:49 PM
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No, actually I thought your idea was pretty cool and I have in fact done things like that in the past to get home on older clunkers.
I was talking about all the ones that keep tearing the system apart for whatever reason. Either for cost or whatever. Part of the decision I made on purchasing the system was the fact that the system is used on trucks with way more horse power than we have and run a lot more miles than these trucks do.

BTW, how is your new engine doing?
Your luck sounds like mine some times which is most of the time.
Old 03-27-2004, 01:11 AM
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Originally posted by Dieseldude4x4

BTW, how is your new engine doing?
Your luck sounds like mine some times which is most of the time.
I wish, I still don't have an engine to put in yet. You know the new block cracked... I have made some runs with it, takes a gallon or so water every 50 miles.
Old 03-27-2004, 05:24 AM
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Sorry, I thought I read you had found yet a third engine already.

OOPS, better get back on the topic I guess. What was the topic anyway?
Old 03-27-2004, 01:39 PM
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Originally posted by Shortshift
"Great point!"

Thats when you reach over the fuel tank, re-connect the the original oem suction line that is still connected to the oem lift pump (which is why people that plan ahead have left theirs in place). Then you disconnect the Fass connection that goes to the oem fuel filter/heater & re-connect the original line from the original pump, unplug the extension power & plug in the oem pump connector, cycle the key 3 times, and start the motor and drive home.

Anymore questions?
How many guys out there hook up a new FASS system when the OEM lift pump is still working? Some, I guess, but I imagine that most have "had it" with the OEM junk and threw it against the garage wall, not left it on the truck.

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