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Buy just the VP44 electronics?

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Old 05-19-2007, 10:03 PM
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Buy just the VP44 electronics?

Does any vendor provide just the electronics for sale?

I think im losing my electronics, and i know many others have also. If the pump throws codes for the electronics not working, whats the reason to exchange it for another rebuidl?

Especially if our "failed" vp44's arent very old?

Seems like they just get cleaned, checked, and a new electronic box tossed on top..

From some disassembled pics, it looks like the electronics can be removed from the pump fairly easy.. with no need to pull the pump and cost downtime and labor.

Im sure no one selling them will gaurantee them.. but has anyone done this themselves?

Looks like its just a couple more bolts than replacing the pump cover like we most all do anyway..

Old 05-20-2007, 09:34 AM
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I dont know about cummins, but that was a problem on the GM 6.5liters. Eventually we could buy the electronics from the dealer(about $130.00) then we would make a wireharness and move the electronics away from the hot motor. The innerfender worked well for the new mounting location. After being moved away from the injection pump they would never fail again. I was looking at the electronics on my dodge and was thinking that if they were moved it would eliminate the dreaded death code. The pump would still be prone to failures because of fuel delivery, but the electronic woes would be gone.
Old 05-20-2007, 10:36 AM
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so then why can't we move the electronics now before they fail?
Old 05-20-2007, 11:13 AM
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If i can buy the electronics seperately i was planning on relocation as well.

Sounds like most rebuilders have the mechanical failures sorted out as long as you watch the fuel pressure..

Trying to track down bosch part numbers.. not a whole lot of resources out there for them though.

Has anyone took the electronics off to see if the common "solder breaks" are large enough that it can be repaired with a common soldering iron and not a microscopic nanoblabla tool?
Old 05-20-2007, 11:25 AM
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what's that part that looks like a gattling gun?
Old 05-20-2007, 11:33 AM
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I thought about this a couple years ago, moving the electronics via a cable to the inside of the cab, to help eliminate the heat soak. I cant remember, but i thought the electronics have to be tuned to the rest of the vp-44 with a test station, but i could be wrong.
Old 05-20-2007, 12:01 PM
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As far as i know its the same software coding on every VP44.. but thats a good point.. they might be tuned together..

Duner, what part are you talking about?

#50 i think is what youre talking about, and in technical terms its a distributionthingymabobber.
Old 05-20-2007, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RAM2940
I thought about this a couple years ago, moving the electronics via a cable to the inside of the cab, to help eliminate the heat soak. I cant remember, but i thought the electronics have to be tuned to the rest of the vp-44 with a test station, but i could be wrong.
they may be need to be matched, yes.
but if we could relocate the existing electronics that are already installed.
Old 05-20-2007, 08:30 PM
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If I was going to try it I think I would try it on a core VP44 first. The electronics looks a little more complicated on this than it was on the GM unit. If the electronics can be removed without destroying it then if it was move before failing it should last forever. On the GM ones we made heat sinks out of alluminum and mounted the controler on it with dielectrate grease.
Old 05-20-2007, 10:33 PM
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There is also a fuel temp sensor that is part of the electronics housing.. (which I really don't think would hurt being moved..) and the position sensor is hard wired to the electronics.. but that could be changed... I'm sure it will need some Calibration .. depending on what needs to be changed...

A few VP pics I have on another site..

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...&albumid=17275
Old 05-21-2007, 08:29 AM
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I looked into this a while back. I was told that certified electronics packs are only supplied to certified rebuilders - who cannot resell them to you separately. Also, it's very likely that if you have a bad pack, you have bad internal sensors and servos, which are networked to the pack. The sensor/servo network is microsoldered to a daughter waferboard, so it's a bit complex - rebuilders simply use packaged units directly from a manufacturer and calibrate them to a rebuilt pump on a stand.

Or at least that's how it was explained to me. I do know that several outfits - City Diesel was one - were trying to come up with ways to beat heatsoak a couple years ago - but as I recall none of the solutions involved moving the electronics to a remote location, presumably because of the above issues.
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