Guys,

Just finshed my brake/rotor job (new caliper, pads and rotors). Started bleeding the passenger side first, the caliper grabbed on the first pump and wont release.

Whats the problem?

Crushed brake line, am I missing something or am I just stupid?

 

have you replaced the rubber hose going to the caliper? i have seen these allow fluid into the caliper from pressure on the brake pedal but not allow it to return and release the caliper

 

I have not.

Ive been trying to source SS lines, but cant get anything local. I dont see much point in replacing rubber lines.

 

It's never good when the doctor is asking questions.

I'm with mike, check the lines.

 

I would go with the rubber flex lines as well, sounds almost like an interior lining collapsing and causing a slow / non-existant return of fluid.

There is nothing wrong at all with factory style "rubber" hp brake lines. They do get old though. So you change them, and move on. Average life expectancy, from my experience, is about 10 years, then its time for new ones. Less than 10 if the outer housing starts to crack.

The stainless braided outer cover does little or nothing for the inner lining on the hose, it should still be 'rubber' or some synthetic variant, so unless you're building a show truck, not a whole lot to be gained by using "stainless" lines.

Just another 1.5 cents.

 

Pind, I believe most SS lines have teflon lining.

I assume the current lines on the truck are original, and this is on my 98 so they probably should be changed anyway. I inspected them and they look and feel a-ok.

But yeah, thanks for the 1.5 cents. Youre right - rubber is probably fine for my application. I always try to upgrade things rather than replace them. Why buy a 2 pound hammer when you can get a 4 pounder???

I will likely be going the rubber route mainly because I cant wait for a cross border shipment.

Any other ideas gents?

 

Oh, I have LOTS of questions young feller....

 

Hey Doc, if there is something holding hydraulic pressure in the caliper, like a collapsed hose, you should be able to release the pressure by opening the bleeder screw. So, if you open the bleeder and fluid squirts out under pressure, then the caliper releases, you know it's that type of problem. The collapsed hose is definitely a possibility, but in 20 years of fixing cars, I don't remember ever seeing it, unless the fluid was contaminated by oil, thus swelling all the rubber. That's not a possibility here, is it?

Anyway, I'm assuming you've just replaced both calipers with rebuilt units. I find it rare these days to see a reman caliper with no problems. I'm wondering if the slide pins are sticky, not allowing the caliper to float- it may only be one side of the caliper that's staying against the rotor.

It is actually the seal around the piston that causes the piston to retract when you release the brakes. To me, it's quite possible that something was assembled poorly during the rebuild and the piston is now binding in its bore. Might be worth trying another caliper. (still assuming here that they are new.)
Hope this helps- I'll keep it in mind- new ideas may pop up.

 

It just gets better and better.

Yes, you are correct, new calipers/pads/rotors and the caliper wont release when I crack the bleed screw. Break fluid is dirty - I assume its just dark from age and not oil contamination.

Didnt check the other side because the wheel is back on.

Bought the calipers in the fall at Partsource...now its full of brake fluid...WIll have to look for the receipt. Thanks.

 

just had the same problem on one side of my truck. when i finally broke loosde whatever was making it stick the brake fluid was full of rust. i just replaced all hoses and calipers.

 

I has an Accord do that years ago when I was running foreign cars. Guy at the dealer told me it was the hose and I said no is isn't. He said OK. Three days later, replaced the hose and viola, no more hanging up.

See if the calipers have those goofy plastic pistons. I have had trouble with those before. Make sure the slide pins are clean and lightly lubed and that both the upper and lower slide areas are wire brushed smooth and have a very very light coat of grease. At 175000, I still have the original brakes all around and calipers get removed once a year, clean the sliding surfaces, and reinstall. Everything works good and front wheels spin freely.

 

Thanks for the input Joel...

Too cold and dont feel like dealing with it today...will wait until it warms up a bit.

I have not checked the drivers side since the wheel is back on, slide pins are well greased (may be a tad tight - Im just one of those guys thats gotta give it a little extra ). No goofy plastic pins on the calipers either. I'll let you guys know when or if I get it fixed.

Thanks again.

 

To remove the brake pads Im guessing that you have to take the star bits out of the caliper? I dont see how else the brake pad will slide out of there.