What kind of dead pedal symptom are you getting? No acceleration, or just a hesitation?

I was getting a hesitation between 1500-2000 and a new APPS cleared it up (so far). It would get worse on the higher Smarty levels. I was thinking VP44, but like you I figured I'd start with the cheaper part. So far, everything is back to normal.

 

It began on out of town trips and is now more noticeable driving around town.
No acceleration is the issue. When the sympton occurrs, I can release the go pedal and then it seems to go again. I'm really hoping this is it as I don't want to drop $1k...that's my casino money. Thanks for the input.

 

OK, that was slightly different than mine. My issue was that it felt like less than normal acceleration. If you pushed a little further, it would pick right up and go. Plus, I couldn't hold a steady engine speed if I was in a lower gear and trying to keep around the 1800-2000 mark.

Hopefully the APPS will solve it for you...otherwise that casino money might have to make more of itself.

 

Will someone humor a newbie, and tell me what APPS is?

 

Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. On a 24V engine, it is what tells the ECM how far the accelerator is pressed so it can deliver fuel.

 

I have not replaced it yet but some how there seems to be a slight idle and power difference. I'm really hoping it's the APPS but I now think it's the VP. After change out, I'll post results....busy till Thurs.

 

OK, same thing as a throttle position sensor? I just replaced mine. The ears in the socket on the sensor were pretty worn, causing shifting problems. All good now.

 

Changed the APPS w/the Williams sensor. Drove yesterday and same intermittent dead pedal issue after 30min or so of hwy driving. No codes and 15psi of fuel. Any other ideas...is there a way to check the electronic portion of the VP?

 

Ok, I'm now going to remove the XZT+ to see if that is causing the loss of power/dead pedal as after the high idle engauges first thing in the am it dies after 10-15 seconds. As you can see, I'm trying to check everything before the VP replacement.

 

OK guru's

before I button everyting up...would you say that if you cant get the voltage exactly which would be better...

a little over or a little under...and what would the difference in results be...

ie...

my tag says.... .526V

inspection showed .41

couldnt get .526....i could get .530 and .510

I set it to .530 because to me (and I hope everone else that took math) .3 is closer to .26 than .1

what do you think...

leave it at .530 and button it up.... or set it at .510

thanks

NCA

 

I replaced my APPS two weeks ago because of CELs relating to APPS.
Was still getting occasional CELs for the APPS fail codes, and an occasional shudder at around 1500 - 1700 RPM.

Found this thread.

APPS POT labeled as .523V
Was reading .324V

Adjusted, road tested, seems better.

Will monitor results.

TIP: Instead of peeling away tape and insulation, I just used a small straight pin pushed through the middle of the wire and attached my meter's + clip to it to get a reading.
After adjustment, a small dab of clear silicone sealer closes it all up.

 

Ok, just to follow up on the last point of my dead pedal issue I replaced the IP this past weekend. I'm 99% sure it was the electronic portion of the pump. The only way to be 100% sure is to have it placed on the bosch pump test stand.

 

I have a 500mile tow tomorrow, My apps is off .010, I'm assuming I dont have to mess with it right?

 

STILL popping APPS codes........

Ordering Timbo's replacement today.