I measured mine at the connector, it tripped the CEL but that went away after a few days. When I pulled the codes thru the dash it was 1693? or whatever that code is that tells you that there are other codes you cann't access without a scanner. When I put the scanner on it came up as ECM main power interrupted or something.

However now that I've done it I wonder what the voltage drop would be with it connected? IE your voltage could change after reconnecting it. When I scnned it a few days ago with the scanner it showed it being out 0.03V already.

The tunning is very sensitive so if you can hook the meter up so you can watch it while moving the APPS it makes life much easier.

 

When i did my APPS i took the plastic cover off the back of the connector. (C1). After that was off i just stuck the probe into the back of the connector. When i did mime it was out .225 VDC. It is defenetly worth doing i noticed a diiference.

 

Ok I just tapped into the wire and got a .2 reading and then just adjusted it were is was just about .580
my tester would either read .5 or .6

Still have major dead pedal.

I got a new code on a obd 2 tester po121.

Im going to just put a new APPS on..

Any last inputs or advice would really be appreciated.

 

are you still getting a 1693?

 

bigblue i am trying to find the schematic but i cant seem to get it

 

here it is https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505...%2047%20RE.pdf

 

OK, I adjusted mine tonight. Had to rotate the sensor as far clockwise (toward the front) as it would go and I just could reach .508 (sticker said .510).

But I also noticed that after cycling the arm a couple of times, the number dropped back to .490. I know it didn't rotate the sensor housing back again since it was down tight, must just be some tension inside. I was able to adjust the stop on the arm slight to bring my final number back to .500.

And you can check by pulling the plug, but it will set a 1689 since you're breaking communication between the PCM and the rest of the bus. But I could clear the code with the Smarty, so I wasn't concerned with it.

 

no i'm not

 

The only thing I noticed that wasn't included in the APPS recalibration procedure was that AFTER the recalibration on the APPS is done, wouldn't it be a good idea for everyone doing the procedure to do the reset with the batteries/pedal BEFORE actually running the truck? That way, you get the recalibrated APPS functioning ALONG WITH the correct pedal adjustment being read by the ECM. I saw the instructions for the APPS recal but didn't see anything referring to resetting the ECM/pedal reading and both procedures should probably be done all at once so that you get the best result from the recalibration.

 

Good point, I did both when I reset my APPS.

 

Ok, I've tried the reset and adj listed above but still get vdc of .10 and it does not change when adj. Any ideas? thanks.

on another thread I mentioned replacing the VP today but I wanted to double check this one last time before droping $1k.

 

Ok, I must have had something incorrect. I adjusted the APPS to exactly .580 and then did the reset. I did not drill a hole in it and spray contact cleaner. Will drive tomorrow and try to post results.....but the "dead pedal" doesn't always happen right away.

 

Ok, still no dead pedal but I've only driven to/from work which I have not had any issues during this commute. This am when high idle kicked in it died after about 1min as in the past. I'm going on a 2hr trip Sat, so that will be the ultimate test and I'll post more results.

 

Ok, symptom began just shortly after leaving town on Sat and then all the way back home. Timbo APPS has been ordered as it's cheaper than a VP. No codes is making this a very difficult issue to trouble shoot.

 

Ok, dead pedal symptom seems to be occuring driving around town now. Timbo APPS came in the mail yesterday. Going to install it and will post the results even though I think it's the VP as this was the "cheaper" item to replace on the list.