sadlerb_98

Update:

This AM I took the gauge pod off and removed the F.P. gauge. I tried hooking it up directly to the braided line like Dave suggested from Diesel Manor. Not a good idea as diesel fuel sprayed everywhere with considerable force. That was my first clue that I must have good fuel pressure.

I then removed the isolator and checked for obvious damage. I couldn’t find any. i then reinstalled and filled to the top of the 2nd thread with antifreeze. I temporarily hooked up the fuel pressure gauge inside the cab and started the truck. 13.5 psi like before. I guess my psi has gone down about 1 psi since I have had the truck.

This leads me to believe that I must have a small leak somewhere between the isolator and the gauge. I will replace that line either when I install the tranny gauge and move the fuel pressure gauge down near the 4WD shifter or when I finally get rid of the isolator.

I’m wanting to get rid of that braided line. It is rubbing all over the place and I don’t want it to saw thru something. Which line should I get from Vulcan? Will I need two snubbers?

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...109/Categories

Thanks
Bob

P.J

If you want to do it right, get the pump relocated down to where you can swap it out much easier in the future, get this one:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...er-Pump/Detail

It's going to include everything you need to move the pump from up in the engine compartment (bad) to down inside the frame rail just forward of the fuel tank. His kit includes a port in one of the fittings to connect a line for the gauge to.

Any chance you could just buy a few feet of rubber hose, slice it and "sheath" the braided line out in the engine bay? I like the durability of the SS, but acknowledge that in a vibratory environment they can do some serious harm to their surroundings.

Mopar1973man

If you follow P.J's advise you should have this for your setup... Look at post #6

You want to use the nylon tubing for your fuel pressure gauge. It will work just fine. Just lose the isolator and run nylon all the way up to the gauge. I've got over 40K miles on this no problems...

sadlerb_98

Thanks guys. I'll look at the relocation kit and the setup from post#6. I like the idea of running all the way to the gauge. That isolator is crap.

Got to go back to work.

thanks,
Bob