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Pulling the IP

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Old 12-05-2008, 09:14 AM
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Pulling the IP

I have a constant slow leak that I can't see where it is coming from so I decided to pull the IP and replace as many seals/o-rings as I can. I had a hard time to find TDC when I did the valves the little nipple would not enter on the IP gear so I had to get it as close as I could.

To pull the IP I have to bring the engine to TDC, right then lock the IP nut.
What other tips can You give Me? I read the sticky and Thank You it was very helpful but I'd still like to know what is the best way to pull the IP so I can replace this seals and put it back in.

Thank You for any help.
Old 12-05-2008, 06:22 PM
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You don't need to be at TDC. It's better to have the keyway on the IP shaft facing straight up so you are less likely to drop the key into the timing case.
Old 12-05-2008, 06:48 PM
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I saw a video of this on the sticky but it only said not to drop something inside the case I didn't see what exactly. Is there another thread that explains the entire process?

Thank You.
Old 12-06-2008, 07:30 AM
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Any takers? I've never pulled the IP on this engines so I appreciate any good advice from the ones that have done this already.
Old 12-06-2008, 09:15 AM
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The part they are talking about is the woodruff key that aligns th epump shaft with the gear. Sometimes if you dont R&R it just right, it can fall out and into your timing case.
Old 12-06-2008, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 92roughstock
The part they are talking about is the woodruff key that aligns th epump shaft with the gear. Sometimes if you dont R&R it just right, it can fall out and into your timing case.
How should I do it to do it right?
Old 12-06-2008, 12:19 PM
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remove the oil fill tube from the timing case, remove the fan and fan shroud just for some extra room so you can see. Loosen the nut on the IP gear and find where the key way is on the IP shaft. rotate the engine so the key way is facing upward. Once you have the IP shaft there leave the motor there, you dont need to be at TDC because the IP isnt like a distributer, it only goes on one way so its nearly impossible to put back wrong.

Next remove the 10mm bolt at the bottom rear of the pump and loosen the 3 13mm nuts at the front of the pump.

Its helped me to be able to turn the pump some while removing the injector lines, so next remove them.

Once there out of the way unhook your fuel, return fuel, AFC tube, power wires, ect .ect.

Now remove the 3 13mm nuts all the way from the front of the pump.

All that should be holding the pump on at this point is the pump gear. A T-bar puller AKA timing gear puller is perfect at removing the gear from the pump shaft. It cost me $13 at advance. The 2 bolts that come with it are for SAE not metric so just pull 2 bolts from your intake horn and use them. They are perfect length and thread.

After that the pump should pull right out the back, just be careful not to knock the key way into the timing case.





Also when I bought my master rebuild/reseal kit I only paid $6.80 for it at a local Bosch shop in Houston. If your truck has alot of miles on it I suggest replacing the throttle shaft bushing as it can get worn and make the throttle shaft sloppy. It was simple to install and ran $28 but well worth it.

Hope that helped some.
Old 12-07-2008, 10:19 AM
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Thank You so much, that is good advice. I have the kit seal with with Me so I can get on this soon.

I will put some towels inside the gear case so if I drop the key way by accident I won't loose it.

Now to tighten the IP gear retaining nut I just turn it with the torque wrench thats it? Is there a way to hold the gear or this is not necessary?
Old 12-07-2008, 10:43 AM
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You wont need to hold the gear, the engine compression will hold it. Just torque it down once the IP is lined up. The engine may rotate some if its worn pretty good, but its unlikely. If it does though thats alright.
Old 12-07-2008, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Exekiel69
I saw a video of this on the sticky but it only said not to drop something inside the case I didn't see what exactly. Is there another thread that explains the entire process?

Thank You.
I posted these videos in here a while back but I dont think it made it into the sticky....

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mquLrWG4ago

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dim4muHRdf8

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3UuMgm8BZc
Old 12-07-2008, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GasganoFJ60
I posted these videos in here a while back but I dont think it made it into the sticky....

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mquLrWG4ago

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dim4muHRdf8

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3UuMgm8BZc
Those is some nice videos there. I'm gonna bookmark them.
Old 12-07-2008, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GasganoFJ60
I posted these videos in here a while back but I dont think it made it into the sticky....

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mquLrWG4ago
Actually, I just went down and checked my pump. It looks like it was part of that recall that is mentioned in the first couple of minutes of that video. Does this mean I can take my truck down to the dealer and get a new IP for free?
Old 12-07-2008, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by GasganoFJ60
I posted these videos in here a while back but I dont think it made it into the sticky....

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mquLrWG4ago

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dim4muHRdf8

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3UuMgm8BZc
I don't know how I missed that! It's in there now!
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