WOW! It's a different truck now.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 531
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From: Rocket City USA - AKA Huntsville, AL
WOW! It's a different truck now.
Got her running (finally) after putting in the 3200 RPM spring. She pulls right up to 3300-3400 off the line, with good power all the way.
I'm still getting almost no smoke, so I know I can go further on the adjustments. She's idling smoothly at about 600-650 RPM. The smoke screw is flush with the top of the lock nut. I already turned the star wheel 90 degrees and turned the full fuel screw 1 or 1 1/2 turns. The fuel pin is set with the deepest side pointing forward. I could only get the pump to move 1/16th closer to the head on the timing adjustment on my own. I might be able to get some more with a second set of hands.
What next? More full fuel screw? More star wheel? More smoke screw? Grind the fuel pin? More timing advance?
I've got a 4" downpipe from a 2nd gen and cast elbow. I'll need to fab up an intermediate pipe before I put it on and cash is a little tight right now, so that will probably have to wait a few weeks. Injectors? I don't know if I want to go that far. Too many issues with POD's, especially smoke and since I'm running 10% - 20% WMO, I want to keep low RPM smoke to a minimum. I don't mind if I blow some black stuff under load, though.
I love this stuff!!!!!
I'm still getting almost no smoke, so I know I can go further on the adjustments. She's idling smoothly at about 600-650 RPM. The smoke screw is flush with the top of the lock nut. I already turned the star wheel 90 degrees and turned the full fuel screw 1 or 1 1/2 turns. The fuel pin is set with the deepest side pointing forward. I could only get the pump to move 1/16th closer to the head on the timing adjustment on my own. I might be able to get some more with a second set of hands.
What next? More full fuel screw? More star wheel? More smoke screw? Grind the fuel pin? More timing advance?
I've got a 4" downpipe from a 2nd gen and cast elbow. I'll need to fab up an intermediate pipe before I put it on and cash is a little tight right now, so that will probably have to wait a few weeks. Injectors? I don't know if I want to go that far. Too many issues with POD's, especially smoke and since I'm running 10% - 20% WMO, I want to keep low RPM smoke to a minimum. I don't mind if I blow some black stuff under load, though.
I love this stuff!!!!!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 17
From: Rocket City USA - AKA Huntsville, AL
Both are very low. EGT's below 900, boost below 10, but that's just around town, empty truck. I need to make a run up the hill (Sierra Nevada's) to see how it acts under load.
The star wheel is a relatively insensitive adjustment. I move it in 2 turn increments.
Adjust the full power screw before messing with the smoke screw and star wheel. Once you turn the pump up good you generally wind up having to set them "leaner" than stock - meaning smoke screw out, star wheel up.
Adjust the full power screw before messing with the smoke screw and star wheel. Once you turn the pump up good you generally wind up having to set them "leaner" than stock - meaning smoke screw out, star wheel up.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 531
Likes: 17
From: Rocket City USA - AKA Huntsville, AL
I just took a drive from Roseville to Colfax, about 40 miles, with a 2500 rise in elevation. Didn't have to down shift once. Pulled up the grades at 75MPH and in some cases I was accelerating up the grades. EGT's never went over 900 and boost topped out at around 15. I took the same drive last weekend (before the pump mods) and my EGT's would hit 1100 on the grades with boost around 20 and I'd have to down shift off the Gear Vendors in a few places, plus I'd lose speed in 5th or 4th.
I want more!!!
I want more!!!
If you want to do another bump in the timing without another set of hands, I found that the ratchet strap trick works well. Just wrap it around the top of the IP and around the front valve cover, and preload it a bit with the IP fasteners loosened. (three on teh timing cover, and the 10mm bolt facing aft) I found that tightening the strap conservatively and tapping the IP afc head towards the engine with a soft rubber mallet works great, and tighten teh ratchet strap to keep the pump from falling back. The strap is more to hold the progress you make with the mallet rather than to do the pulling... If you're crafty you can tighten and mallet simultaniously to get your 1/8" bump or more...
The star wheel is a relatively insensitive adjustment. I move it in 2 turn increments.
Adjust the full power screw before messing with the smoke screw and star wheel. Once you turn the pump up good you generally wind up having to set them "leaner" than stock - meaning smoke screw out, star wheel up.
Adjust the full power screw before messing with the smoke screw and star wheel. Once you turn the pump up good you generally wind up having to set them "leaner" than stock - meaning smoke screw out, star wheel up.
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