JDFord

Been reading about putting the blower motor and headlights on relays. Is the wire and connectors available at the local hardware store good enough quality or should I by wiring with cross link high temp insulation and nickel plated connectors? I noticed Mr. Lane strongly recommended Bosch relays and he used Hi temp connectors for splicing but I couldn't find recommendations for the wire or spade type connectors.

Thanks!

Santaclaus

If memory serves me correctly use referring to the connectors, I believe he gets them from a refrigeration supply house I'm not 100% sure. I would recommend automotive grade wiring. Wiring generally from hardware stores is for household use in generally stiffer i.e. lower strand count for given size, due to the fact that most houses don't vibrate hopefully.
On my headlight relays I used to engage from the battery to the fuse and relies. I used 12 gauge from the relays to each individual light and back to ground. I used 16 gauge from the light socket back to the relays for my trigger. It does make an impressive difference.

BearKiller

The best you can afford is the best route to go; BUT, just because you pay a high price many times does not mean that you are getting better stuff.

The absolutely best solder/crimp connectors I have used to date came in a big discount-store assortment of over 1500 pieces for ten bucks.

Some of the sorriest ones have came in little packs of three or four for a couple dollars a pack.

12-AWG wire is what I used on my head-lights; 10-AWG was used on the blower.

Like already said, the finer the strands, the more flexible the wire; I like the clear-plastic-coated THNN (is it ??? ) wire that I get from the big spools at the hardware store.

Stereo shop wire is my favorite, as it has very fine strands and the see-thru insulation is really cool.

JDFord

Thanks for the advice! I am planning to order the supplies I will need. Looking forward to having some brighter headlights and a blower that actually moves some air!

JustRamIt91

I believe you mean THHN, and wire is wire, stranded wire carries a higher current with less temperature, the quality of insulation keeps the electricity from arching to ground through the insulation, thus more amperage.

TIMMY22

THHN is not designed to stand up to gasoline, diesel, sunlight or antifreeze etc. It's for inside of conduit.

Balkamp connectors are good quality.

BearKiller

You made me go out in my ice-cold shop and grab a spool to see just what it says.


TYPE MTW THHN THWN-2 GASOLINE FUEL AND OIL RESISTANT C(UL) TYPE T90 TWN 75 FT1

There is probably fifty miles of this stuff through-out each of my cattle-trailers and nothing liquid or semi-liquid that they have thrown at it has even phased it in several years.

I like it a lot better than any of the other so-called automotive wires on account of it's superior ability to withstand abrasion.

It has been many a year since I have had a trailer wire to wear through and short out, which was a common occurence before I started using this stuff.

JustRamIt91

yeah thought it may have been a variation of that, its basic trailer wire? you said its clear??? the wire im thinking of is pretty flexible, has two different insulators and 1 thin layer around it for uv protection and slippery for an easier pull... and its somewhat expensive when you get upwards of 2/0... am i close?

TIMMY22

You have "pro-line" wire there, mulit use stuff.

Standard THHN is for indoor bulding use only.

http://www.distributorwire.com/blog/...cts/thhn-xhhw/

BearKiller

The wire I just described is available in a multitude of colors and AWG sizes, all with a CLEAR outer layer of insulation over the colored insulation.