Craig93

As much as I hate to see winter coming, it is inevitable. It is bouncing down to Zero Celsius right now ( just a temporary cold front I hope ).
With the intercooler needing air flow, at what temp is too cold since the Diesel ignites under "heat" of compression there must be an optimum intake air temp which would work best.
I would like discuss at what temp would a winterfront aid in efficiency of the Cummins.

ramguy

I'm not sure what's considered optimal intake temps. but Your grid heater kicks on at 59 degrees F. I live in Kansas and I run my winters cvr. up to 60F. and have been for 7 yrs. w/ no problems. I think even though your airflow is restricted w/ the cvr. your still pulling enough air through the innercooler to make a difference as long as temp. is around 60 deg or less.
The one thing I've learned is that w/ an AT it's normally a good idea not to run the cvr. over the AT cooler in the upper RH side of the grill (when facing the front). With a trany temp. gauge you can monitor that. You can over heat your trany even in the winter.

ramguy

Lil Dog

The winterfront for me is more determined by the driving conditions I am in. If its short trips around the town, then I completely close off the front end at about -15°C. On the highway I always run some opening down to about -30°C just for cooling and the intercooler to have some effect. I also listen for fan engagement and temperature of the engine to dictate when and how I adjust the coverage of the front end. You want to maintain a decent engine water temperature regardless of intake air temp to aid in combustion. A warm engine won't have the wash down or poor fuel combustion even with cold intake air. There is a certain amount of air heating in the head and cylinder during the run process that will compensate for some cold intake air.

With the fan running constantly at some speed as the clutch never really goes to neutral, you usally have enough air flow for the intercooler at cold temps even with the winterfront on.

One consideration is that the intake air to the turbo is that much cooler, so the outlet of the turbo even under load will be significantly lower. The need for the intercooler at cold temps is not as great as at summer temps.

I really noticed a pyro temp drop in the winter with my non intercooled 89. Lots of boost, good temps and good power but come summer the last 1/4 of throttle was useless due to high temps.

As for optimum intake air temp... I don't have a number. I would assume intake air around 80-110°F would be a good start. Most engines I work with are specified for that range of temp.

J-eh

DodgeCowboy

So on the 89 if it was intercooled would you be able to run the last 1/4 of the throttle? but becuase its not your temps get higher? Iam just tryin to figure out the differance between a intercooled engine and a non?

Lil Dog

You got it.. The intake air temperature without the intercooler would be as high as about 250°F under full boost. With the intercooler you usually can shave about 100° off of the intake air with good air flow if not more. A guy I met from Washington at a dyno day in Calgary had an intake air gauge and found the intake temps don't get too much above 150°F even with his 40+ psi boost.

The cooler the intake air, the cooler the outlet air if you catch my drift. ITs not a linear equation, but the drop in intake air temp in the winter dropped my EGT's on the 89 by 100°F for sure.

Scotty used to live in Calgary(near me) and we talked alot about intake air temp.. Its the reason his air induction systems are so good at dropping EGT's, COOOOL air in helps alot.

J-eh

frostie

I live in western Colorado and never use a winterfront.
Once the engine is warmed up you want the air as cold as possible going in the engine. The temperature inside the cylinder is plenty warm to fire the fuel. The colder the air the more dense it is, in tern, more air in the cylinder. My heated air intake never comes on after the engine is warmed up even if outside temp is 10 degrees F.
You will see more boost the colder it is outside.

Craig93

That's what I was thinking too, remembering the added value of dense air when mixing air/fuel in a gasser. I guess I will use the winter front if my coolant temp does not climb enough to keep my carcass warm in the cab. Last winter the old beast worked great in the winter, really good stove in her.
But come the -30 ( Celsius ) and lower temps, the winter front is going on, add the wind chill factor and that is just too cold.

greatwhite

Not real sure where Calahoo is butif you're in chinook country then its trickier but I run my winterfront in MB from Thanksgving to May 1 and I've never had a problem with towing or heating. At least it makes enough heat that you can unzip your parka in the cab.

My only complaint about these trucks is that they don't make enough heat in the winter. haven't yet found a 195* t'stat but I haven't given up hope.