Where to get spring hangers?
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#8
Registered User
If you only need the rearmost two, you might try Kelderman in Oskaloosa, IA (800-334-6150).
The Kelderman air bag setup for the rear of a First Gen involves replacement of the back two OEM spring hangers; so every time they install a set of rear airbags they have a set of OEM spring hangers left over.
Good luck.
The Kelderman air bag setup for the rear of a First Gen involves replacement of the back two OEM spring hangers; so every time they install a set of rear airbags they have a set of OEM spring hangers left over.
Good luck.
#11
Registered User
Those look wonderful; now, show me what a set of homemade ones for the other end of the springs looks like.
The son's truck came with a pair of brand-new hangers in the rear-most position, but the forward ones on the rear springs are about rusted away.
Short of a torch, how can I get rid of the rivets that hold them on ??
It appears that the same rivets also hold a cross-member.
Thanks.
#12
Registered User
Those look wonderful; now, show me what a set of homemade ones for the other end of the springs looks like.
The son's truck came with a pair of brand-new hangers in the rear-most position, but the forward ones on the rear springs are about rusted away.
Short of a torch, how can I get rid of the rivets that hold them on ??
It appears that the same rivets also hold a cross-member.
Thanks.
The son's truck came with a pair of brand-new hangers in the rear-most position, but the forward ones on the rear springs are about rusted away.
Short of a torch, how can I get rid of the rivets that hold them on ??
It appears that the same rivets also hold a cross-member.
Thanks.
I find that grinding them flush then center punching and drilling about a 3/16" hole part way through it. Hit them with an air hammer and they go flying. Drill the holes out to 1/2" and you'll be back in business in no time.
#13
Registered User
Here's a picture of the front set, I added gussets after the pic was taken, but you get the idea. Where's the picture ??
I find that grinding them flush then center punching and drilling about a 3/16" hole part way through it. Hit them with an air hammer and they go flying. Drill the holes out to 1/2" and you'll be back in business in no time.
I find that grinding them flush then center punching and drilling about a 3/16" hole part way through it. Hit them with an air hammer and they go flying. Drill the holes out to 1/2" and you'll be back in business in no time.
I could do this one rivet at a time, replacing with bolts as I go, until I get them all done; thus, the truck could still be used up until I get ready to replace the hangers, RIGHT ??
Thanks.
I went to your gallery and found this :
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&ppuser=34464
How thick is the plate against the frame and how thick and what size is the nut that is welded to it ??
Does the spring-bolt slide through the welded nut, or thread into it ??
Thanks.
#14
Registered User
I don't really see a reason to do that, when your ready to do it, knock the old rivets out, I wouldn't do it a moment sooner just in case a rivet decides to give you trouble. Plus your going to have to drop the fuel tank to do the drivers side.
The plate is 1/2, the nut is a standard 3/4" nut. The spring bolt threads into it.
The plate is 1/2, the nut is a standard 3/4" nut. The spring bolt threads into it.
#15
Registered User