Where to get spring hangers?
I need to replace my rear spring hangers on my 93 w250. Where is a source for hangers. Seems all I can find is chevy and ford stuff.
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Are you trying to do a shackle flip, or just replace your OEM hangers because they're bad?
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They are rusted out.
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sent a pm.
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I just put a set on my 91 as a shackle flip. got them from a junk yard for 100$ for the pair. Other than that you can order new ones but they are around
90$ a piece. |
I knock them off of every truck that goes though my yard, this stuff is getting harder and harder to come by.
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Do you need all 4 or just the rear 2? I might have a couple sets of rears available soon, after I do the shackle flip on my '90.
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If you only need the rearmost two, you might try Kelderman in Oskaloosa, IA (800-334-6150).
The Kelderman air bag setup for the rear of a First Gen involves replacement of the back two OEM spring hangers; so every time they install a set of rear airbags they have a set of OEM spring hangers left over. Good luck. |
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I think trooperthorn is gonna bail me out... Thanks guys.I was gonna make some if I had to.
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Originally Posted by JD730
(Post 2162432)
Those look wonderful; now, show me what a set of homemade ones for the other end of the springs looks like. The son's truck came with a pair of brand-new hangers in the rear-most position, but the forward ones on the rear springs are about rusted away. Short of a torch, how can I get rid of the rivets that hold them on ?? It appears that the same rivets also hold a cross-member. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by BearKiller
(Post 2162966)
Those look wonderful; now, show me what a set of homemade ones for the other end of the springs looks like.
The son's truck came with a pair of brand-new hangers in the rear-most position, but the forward ones on the rear springs are about rusted away. Short of a torch, how can I get rid of the rivets that hold them on ?? It appears that the same rivets also hold a cross-member. Thanks. I find that grinding them flush then center punching and drilling about a 3/16" hole part way through it. Hit them with an air hammer and they go flying. Drill the holes out to 1/2" and you'll be back in business in no time. |
Originally Posted by JD730
(Post 2163085)
Here's a picture of the front set, I added gussets after the pic was taken, but you get the idea. Where's the picture ??
I find that grinding them flush then center punching and drilling about a 3/16" hole part way through it. Hit them with an air hammer and they go flying. Drill the holes out to 1/2" and you'll be back in business in no time. I could do this one rivet at a time, replacing with bolts as I go, until I get them all done; thus, the truck could still be used up until I get ready to replace the hangers, RIGHT ?? Thanks. I went to your gallery and found this : https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&ppuser=34464 How thick is the plate against the frame and how thick and what size is the nut that is welded to it ?? Does the spring-bolt slide through the welded nut, or thread into it ?? Thanks. |
I don't really see a reason to do that, when your ready to do it, knock the old rivets out, I wouldn't do it a moment sooner just in case a rivet decides to give you trouble. Plus your going to have to drop the fuel tank to do the drivers side.
The plate is 1/2, the nut is a standard 3/4" nut. The spring bolt threads into it. |
Originally Posted by JD730
(Post 2163131)
Plus your going to have to drop the fuel tank to do the drivers side.
Ohhhh Goody !!!!!!! and the driver-side is the one in the worst shape.:( Thanks for sharing the pictures; I will copy your work closely.:cool: |
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