So I thought that my wheel bearings were bad (front 4x4), but when I took off the caliper and spun the rotor with a screw driver to my ear I didnt hear any grinding at all. It sounded very smooth. But threre is a small amount of play, say a strong 1/32. Is there a tolerence for this??

 

I don't like any play. I have seen plenty with just a smidge.

 

So I am probably ok?? Also I have my mechanic who wants to charge me $225to re-pack the bearings, this sounds like too much to me. I would do it my self but I dont have the proper tools to remove the locking hub assembly.

 

From the book:
- Install the wheel bearing inner lock nut on the spindle using special wrench. Tighten lock nut to 50 ft lbs to seat the bearings
- Loosen the inner lock nut. Tighten to 31-39 ft lbs while rotating the hub and rotor assembly.
- Back off inner lock nut 135-150 degrees to set the free play.
- Install tabbed lock washer in the nearest hole in the washer. Install and tighten the outer lock nut with special wrench to 160-205 ft lbs. The end play after final bearing adjustment should be within
.001-.010 inches.

When you say 1/32 do you mean the outside edge of the tire moves 1/32 or you think there is 1/32 of play in the bearings?
1/32 = .03125 so they are a little loose if you mean bearing slop.

I think $225 for repacking the bearings is insanely expensive. You can get the socket from napa for $20 ish. The number in the book for the socket is 7158. A good parts store may be able to cross reference the socket number.
Hope this helps. Aaron

 

When I say 1/32 movement I mean at the end of the hub at the locking part.
Dont I need two different sockets to reomove the two different types of nuts holding on the rotor??

 

The book lists the same number for the inner and outer lock nut socket.

 

Wow $225.00 what a rip off, this shouldn't cost more that $5.00 if you need to buy a new can of grease, I have repacked 4x4 spindles with not much more than a hammer and a few small chisels or punch and I have never had any problems.

 

Loose is fast!!

 

At least 90% of the wheels I wiggle are in need of new bearings, and I have reason to wiggle a lot of them.

Many is the time I have pointed this out to the vehicle owner, only to have them "adjust" the slop-----WRONG

The ONLY way for a properly installed wheel-bearing/race to get "out of adjustment" is for it to WEAR OUT.

Any wheel-bearing that you can wiggle is in need of replacement.

If immediate replacement is not immediately possible, you can ??MAYBE?? squeeze a few more weeks out of it by tightening it some, but that set of bearings is shot and should be replaced at the soonest time convenient.

Ignoring this can possibly cause the race to spin within the hub, enlarging it's bore; how many times have you had to *****-punch a race bore to tighten up the hub's grip on the race ??

It can also lead to catastrophic bearing failure at speed, thereby letting the wheel/hub assembly part company with the vehicle; this can become very exciting, not only for the driver, but for those that must now dodge the tire assembly that now has a mind of it's own.


As far as the price quoted you for the hub packing job, I would not pay someone else to do that job for me; BUT, I would not do the job on anyone else's truck for so little, either.

 

Take a look at this thread by BC847, "Rebuild your front D60 4X4 brakes". It completely covers disassembling, repacking, and reassembling the front hubs.

Then go to 4WDfactory.com, and get this kit for the wheel bearings, (you'll need one for each side); you may need one of these kits for the spindle (needle) bearing, (if you have to replace one side than just replace the other side too); and here is the socket that you need to remove the nuts.

 

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