I was looking at injection pumps. What is so special about 230hp pump. Are the internals different or do they just play with the fuel screw. I'm gona purchase a pump or get mine rebuilt and I'm just trying to save a little $$$.

 

I may stand corrected but the 230hp P-pump, found on things like old school buses, is one of the biggest mechanical pumps you'll find for our engines. The pump on 98 12V's is 215hp. The difference is, the pump internals are much larger capable of more power. Look at the 160hp p-pump on 94's to the 215hp pump. Big difference and the 215's capable of ALOT more.

Mike

 

He's asking about the 230hp VE pump, not the P-pump.

Unfortunately I don't know what is different other than the full power screw setting.

 

Whoops... My mistake... again

 

my personal opinion is that 230 is the middle of the road, happy stock pump.
this is from the sticky on VE pump adjustments!

Posted to the Cummins List by Walt K.

I am sending these to the list and in public because I -strongly- doubt there is an early truck (pre-'94) left that is still under any warranty. I make absolutely no claims and accept absolutely no responsibility for anything that may happen if an owner of an older truck decides to make use of this information.

In order to increase the horsepower of the early trucks, one must carefully locate two adjustments, one is in the smoke-limiter and will be adjusted to allow greater fuel with low manifold pressure (initially, this is adjusted to minimize black smoke at low rpm/low manifold pressure conditions... but, we cannot build manifold pressure without fuel). You must remove the circular seal-plug from the center of the aneroid device. This reveals the first adjustment. This adjustment will markedly affect the feel of the truck's launch, making it pull from a stop more strongly. Adjust this in 1/4-turn increments until you 'like' the feel at launch and record the adjustment so you can return it to 'normal' in preparation for a smoke opacity test, if you reside in such a state.

The second adjustment is where the *real* gain comes from... There is a concealed adjustment on the 'back side' of the pump... essentially behind the fuel lines. [See the power adjustment screw on fig 1 above] You must uncover the adjustment screw and turn it 135-degrees clockwise. You may have to reduce idle speed back to 750 rpm after this adjustment. The 135-degrees will give you of the order of 230hp...

Remember two things -- this will void any remaining warranty and that I make no claims beyond assurance I *have* performed these two adjustments on my truck over 45,000miles ago. In short, if you chose to follow my example, you are on your own in event of breakage.

 

There are some companies that charge several hundred more for a 230hp pump. If all they do is turn the screw I would hate to see there hourly rate! I don't mind spending money but I hate getting ripped off. Flash I read the same thing that is why I'm questioning on what they really do to a 230hp pump

 

Hey Hertz if you what to know the truth....go talk to the horse...in other words send an e=mail to piers and they will tell you all about their 230 pump no mis info or replys

 

I 2nt this statement. I'm shore that there is changes that are dun in the pump to make the 230 hp pump live a long life as the original 160hp did.

 

Yes turn that fuel screw in a turn or two, maybe rotate the afc pin, then crimp that lock collar on the fuel screw and call it a 230hp pump. I wouldn't give any extra for one.

 

What size are the pistons in a stock pump?

 

12mm plunger diameter.