What is the easiest way?
#1
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What is the easiest way?
What is the easiest way to remove the fss I have a 1992 w250 with automatic tranny and cruise control do I remove the cruise control on top of the injectorpump or?
#3
I don't know about the whole automatic thing but I found it easy enough to cut the top of the rear pump bracket. That give you ample room to get the fss out. Don't forget to remove the blue wire from the fss spade terminal.
#4
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If you mean the fuel shut-down solenoid, the easiest way to remove/install that I have found is to use a small dull chisel and hammer, and walk it out thus.
Once it moves the least bit, it will easily screw right out.
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#9
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I just clamped a cresent wrench down on the bracket that is in the way right there and bent it back so I could get a wrench on the fss. Bends surprisingly easy really soft metal. The chisel and hammer didn't work out for my to well.
#10
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It would be really cool if you guys posted pix of what you were talking about, so those of us who don't even know what the "fss" is that you're talking about could follow along and maybe gain some valuable information.
Fss can stand for several different things, hence the confusion.
Thanks !
(from all of the newbies)
Fss can stand for several different things, hence the confusion.
Thanks !
(from all of the newbies)
#11
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FSS Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. Its on the side of your pump facing the firewall. There is 2 wires hooked to it and a dumb bracket in the way.
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummin...p/inc-pump.htm
Here's a link to a pic that points it out.
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummin...p/inc-pump.htm
Here's a link to a pic that points it out.
#12
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Fuel Shut-off Solenoid (FSS)
That's it to the immediate right of the charge-air pipe, top/left. Has the two 1/4" male connector tabs on it. . ..
You can see that I've also trimmed the rear bracket.
That's it to the immediate right of the charge-air pipe, top/left. Has the two 1/4" male connector tabs on it. . ..
You can see that I've also trimmed the rear bracket.
#13
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Thank you, guys !
you have no idea how much that means. Great links and pix, btw. BOOKMARKED and appreciated.
Helping me, and others, to understand what you're doing, and what the importance of each task is, really goes a long way.
From a personal perspective:
This truck is my first CTD (cummins turbo diesel) that I've owned, and with the short time span of experiences I've had with it (since mid Jan), I can never see myself NOT owning one.
What a phenomenal feat of engineering.
I love the first gen's most of all...... FWIW.
you have no idea how much that means. Great links and pix, btw. BOOKMARKED and appreciated.
Helping me, and others, to understand what you're doing, and what the importance of each task is, really goes a long way.
From a personal perspective:
This truck is my first CTD (cummins turbo diesel) that I've owned, and with the short time span of experiences I've had with it (since mid Jan), I can never see myself NOT owning one.
What a phenomenal feat of engineering.
I love the first gen's most of all...... FWIW.
#14
Registered User
Okay, sooner or later, you are going to be driving along and the engine just shut-down for no reason that you can figure.
It may just fire right off just as quick as it quit and not do this again for months; or, it may not re-start at all.
BEFORE that happens, look at the really neat picture above that BC747 so kindly posted.
See the 5/16 (8mm) nut that is holding the double blade terminal thingie ??
Remove that nut --- don't lose it --- and remove that double blade terminal.
Clip off the mating female terminals that were connected there.
Crimp and solder ring-terminals onto both of those wires instead.
Now, put the rings over the stud that is on top of the fuel-solenoid and replace the nut.
I think there may also be a lock-washer under there.
I also like to put a flat-washer between the ring-terminals and the nut.
Make sense ??
#15
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Okay, sooner or later, you are going to be driving along and the engine just shut-down for no reason that you can figure.
It may just fire right off just as quick as it quit and not do this again for months; or, it may not re-start at all.
BEFORE that happens, look at the really neat picture above that BC747 so kindly posted.
See the 5/16 (8mm) nut that is holding the double blade terminal thingie ??
Remove that nut --- don't lose it --- and remove that double blade terminal.
Clip off the mating female terminals that were connected there.
Crimp and solder ring-terminals onto both of those wires instead.
Now, put the rings over the stud that is on top of the fuel-solenoid and replace the nut.
I think there may also be a lock-washer under there.
I also like to put a flat-washer between the ring-terminals and the nut.
Make sense ??
It may just fire right off just as quick as it quit and not do this again for months; or, it may not re-start at all.
BEFORE that happens, look at the really neat picture above that BC747 so kindly posted.
See the 5/16 (8mm) nut that is holding the double blade terminal thingie ??
Remove that nut --- don't lose it --- and remove that double blade terminal.
Clip off the mating female terminals that were connected there.
Crimp and solder ring-terminals onto both of those wires instead.
Now, put the rings over the stud that is on top of the fuel-solenoid and replace the nut.
I think there may also be a lock-washer under there.
I also like to put a flat-washer between the ring-terminals and the nut.
Make sense ??
I guess I need to cut off the bracket, for access, as well, no ?
Thanks for the tip !