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What did you do to your Gen 1 today?

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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 09:33 PM
  #1126  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by oliver foster
We left at about 11AM to start the almost 10 HR trek home.
I saw Bo Duke walk in to the signing this morning at 9:30, and the line was already 60+ people deep.
I was sad to see him show up driving a O.J Simpson year/style Ford Bronco.
I looked at the Mopar buddy I was talking to and said, "Could someone get this guy a Ramcharger, quick."
It was a great weekend with my kid though!
A a you were leaving, we we're walking in gate 7
Next year
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 12:02 AM
  #1127  
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From: Fort Riley, kansas
So yesterday I replaced my clutch that had 200,00 mils on it. Good thing I did because one of the springs had come out of the clutch hub and was just bouncing around in there. So new South bend clutch and fly wheel and followed instructions to the letter but when I press the clutch its not releasing all the way. Could my sloppy clutch peddle be to blame?
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 04:44 PM
  #1128  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Some from Oliver to post

A 1st gen converted to a sleeper.

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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 04:45 PM
  #1129  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Field pix

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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 09:40 PM
  #1130  
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Originally Posted by NJTman
Some from Oliver to post

A 1st gen converted to a sleeper.







You see a 1st Gen converted to a sleeper, I see a BN'W
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 02:32 AM
  #1131  
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From: North carolina
yes sloopy clutch pedal is your problem, plus the new clutch doesnt help. i had same problem. i posted a youtube vid of a easy fix that makes it better than new. here is you tube link

Last edited by boeingguy; Jul 14, 2015 at 02:45 AM. Reason: add link
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 10:05 AM
  #1132  
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From: Orange County, California
Originally Posted by NJTman
Something I recently learned about the old A body Plymouth side marker lamps:_________________________________

They are not grounded. The two conductors from the lamp connections hook to the turn signal on that side and to the parking light or tail light buss

Here's how they work, there are several different configurations

DAYTIME, parking lights off. Turn signals off. No power to side lamps, they are out.

If you turn on the turn signal, the signal power goes to one wire of the side lamp on that side, and it "gets a ground" "in series" through the UNpowered parking lamps to ground

So in this situation, the lamp blinks on along with the signal lamp

NIGHT, parking / headlamps ON, turn signal OFF

In this case, the parking/ tail buss feeds power to one side of the side marker lamp, and it "goes to ground" through the UNpowered turn signal lamp, so the side lamp lights
NIGHT, parking/ head ON, turn signal BLINKING

In this case, in the blinking cycle, WHEN the main signal lamp is OUT, the side marker is ON just like above, because the side lamp is "getting a ground" through the UNpowered signal lamp to ground

BUT WHEN the signal lamp FLASHES ON, now you have power on BOTH SIDES of the side marker --power on one side of the lamp from the parking / tail lamp buss, and power on the other side of the lamp from the turn signal

SO IN THIS CASE the side marker blinks OFF when the main signal lamp blinks ON

__________________________________________________ _________
So... The front turn signals poor, or lack of circuit ground can have an effect on the side marker lamp.
This really sucks that they function in this manner. It makes wanting to run LED bulbs a real PITA. I'm half tempted to piggyback the side markers to the front lamps so that I can run LEDs without having to wire up a pair of relays as Jim Lane did on his truck. I have a pair of really nice LED assemblies that I would like to install. Hell, I've had them for over a year now. They'll bolt in place of the factory side markers without modifications, too. I don't care if they flash simultaneously.

How does all of what NJT described take place? I'm thinking all the way back to the turn signal switch. If I were piggyback the side markers with front markers, would they function as running lights and turn signals when activated?
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 10:17 AM
  #1133  
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by jimbo486
This really sucks that they function in this manner. It makes wanting to run LED bulbs a real PITA. I'm half tempted to piggyback the side markers to the front lamps so that I can run LEDs without having to wire up a pair of relays as Jim Lane did on his truck. I have a pair of really nice LED assemblies that I would like to install. Hell, I've had them for over a year now. They'll bolt in place of the factory side markers without modifications, too. I don't care if they flash simultaneously.
The reason an LED won't work is because it is polarity sensitive. I don't see any reason a 40 cent bridge rectifier won't rectify (pun intended) the situation.

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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 04:28 PM
  #1134  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Found this today.

I bet he didn't suffer very long..

(notice I said "HE" ? My wife tells me all the time..... It's a guy in that car, driving like that, ......right ?)

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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 04:44 PM
  #1135  
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From: vermont
Even for a die hard Mopar guy it is hard to pick out the 'Cuda left in that picture.
The driver's side seat does not look like a good seat to have been in.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 06:39 PM
  #1136  
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Well you can see the yellow tarp in the one pic...guess that's what's left of the driver that they scrapped off the pole.

As they say..."Stupid people have a way of removing themselves from the gene pool."
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 09:57 PM
  #1137  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Spent several hours replacing my relays for my snow plow lights.

I have the same setup for the truck headlamps, and they're next on the list of things to do.

NJ environment sucks for rust. This didn't take long to deteriorate. The new ones are SEALED, so I'm hoping not to be doing this again, for at least a while.
Attached Thumbnails What did you do to your Gen 1 today?-0716151342.jpg   What did you do to your Gen 1 today?-0716151342a.jpg   What did you do to your Gen 1 today?-0716151640.jpg  
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 02:44 AM
  #1138  
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From: Prince George, BC
Those "water tight" connections should last a little longer...if they are a water tight as they claim. But Looks good from here.
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 06:50 AM
  #1139  
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From: Isanti, MN
I use Custom Connector's BR-05 series waterproof connector, and amp terminals. Add a good hooded relay, and it's even impervious to Minnesota's legendary road salt.

The system is a contact block with seal, amp terminals, and several different wire seals for different diameter wires. It will accommodate 10 - 18 gauge wires in any position.
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 07:29 AM
  #1140  
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by j_martin
I use Custom Connector's BR-05 series waterproof connector, and amp terminals. Add a good hooded relay, and it's even impervious to Minnesota's legendary road salt.

The system is a contact block with seal, amp terminals, and several different wire seals for different diameter wires. It will accommodate 10 - 18 gauge wires in any position.
We have toxic air, vs your nice clean air, so between the road salt, the sprayed on brine, and the acid filled air, not much holds up here

This is the connector and relay system I'm using for the Headlamp relays I put in by Jim Lane. Nice tight seal, and (hopefully) will last longer. Very similar to a GM connector..

Amazon.com: HELLA H84709001 Iso Weatherproof Relay Connector with 12" Leads: Automotive Amazon.com: HELLA H84709001 Iso Weatherproof Relay Connector with 12" Leads: Automotive
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The relays

Amazon.com: HELLA 007794311 12V 20/40 Amp SPDT RES Relay with Weatherproof Bracket: Automotive Amazon.com: HELLA 007794311 12V 20/40 Amp SPDT RES Relay with Weatherproof Bracket: Automotive
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