Generally 0 or 1 at lower (city) speeds. 1 or 2 at highway speeds.

 

strong words, perhaps you can tell us how companies producing "junk toys" like Tekonsha stay in business when the operation of their product is critical to the proper control of a trailer that might weigh 2-3x the tow vehicle...

 

Once u go with the type brake controller such as max brake u'll not want to use the other types. Ignorance is what keeps people buying inferior products. Why o why does anyone want a gas engine? Lol

My .02

 

P3 Here on both units, they were one of the first controllers that would work with the elec/hyd brake set-ups. I can use the same argument on buying an elec/hyd brake set-up on the trailer axles that you guys are using on buying a Maxbrake controller.

 

they stay in business because they sell a cheap priced junk toy advertised as a controller. if you try a maxbrake just one trip you can instantly see what we are talking about. comparing the maxbrake to the p3 is like comparing a flashlight to a candle.

 

Yet for someone who doesn't tow much, or very often, one of those cheap toy of a brake controller does more than I will ever need it to. But unlike most people, I also already drive like I have a trailer on. Saves on brakes and fuel that way.

 

Not trying to pick a fight with you Carl, but once you go elec/hyd you"ll never go back to drums. I have no problems with my system and it gets me in and out of some interesting places..

 

the maxbrake does the same for electric/hyd

 

The difference is this:
An inertia controller has 2 inputs. It senses the brake light switch, indicating the pedal is away from the top stop. It senses the deceleration of the tow vehicle. With these two inputs it tries to guess how much braking to apply to the trailer.
1. Incline, headwind, and road condition, abs cycling and brake condition all effect the pendulum sensor.
2. Most will lightly apply the brakes before any deceleration is sensed. That's fine on dry road, but gets inconvenient to deadly on ice or with an unloaded light trailer.

A controller that runs on hydraulic (or air) pressure matches the trailer brakes to what's happening in the cockpit. In tough conditions, the moxy of an experience driver trumps relatively primitive electronics any day.

This is the result of an inertia controller's "guess" on ice. Premature light application of trailer brakes (driver just touched the pedal) on ice in a crosswind put the trailer crosswise in the other lane. Pretty much wrecked the day of the oncoming driver also.

 

On both my 1 tons, I've swapped out the commodity inertia controllers for Kelsey 81740's. They are past era controls that amount to a lever, a spring, a small hydraulic cylinder, and a rheostat that'll run 3 axles. On my double tow rig, the second trailer is amplifier driven to both lighten the load on the tractor, and provide emergency braking if needed, as the circuit will set the second trailer's brakes if the first trailer breaks away and sets it's brakes.

'nuther diagram:

 

Thank you for post this tread.

ALL My old trucks have & or had ( after sold I dont know what new owner does with it) the old school Kelsey 81740.

The truck & trailer brakes always acted in uniform with each other.

Fast forward
The truck Im driving now had this time time delay controller. What a joke.
So I bought the tekonsha p3 unit. after all they got great reviews.
That piece of junk is in the trash can. I put a surge unit on my trailer I feel safer.

So Ive been keeping a eye open looking for a OLD SCHOOL Kelsey brake controller with no luck in the local wreaking yards.

Ill be trying out the Maxbrake unit.

 

Got mine on FleeBay, bout 35 bucks each. The only thing better than good parts is a good deal on good parts.

MaxBrake will do the same thing, with some nice bells and whistles you'd like.

 

the maxbrake is a modern version of the Kelsey. it uses a sensor to report hydraulic pressure to a processor chip. the chip senses the number of axles and instantly sends a direct proportional signal to the trailer brakes. ie if you apply 7% brakes on truck you instantly have 7% on trailer. here is a copy of a post, the smartbrake mentioned is a controller like the maxbrake but is no longer made. Both units you specifically asked for are very good controllers and will work adequately. I'd go with whichever one is less expensive at the time of purchase. But to say you can't 'justify' $350 to stop a trailer reliably each and every time you need it to stop is rather callous. I have had the Prodigy fail to be adequate in several circumstances. I've had the cheaper units just plain not work. While I'm sure the Max Brake and Smart Brake are capable of malfunctioning and/or not working, I think the possibility of this circumstance is greatly reduced. Add to that the fact that they make the stopping of a trailer feel like it has its' own integrated hydraulic or air system and the safety factor goes up ten-fold. I know from first hand experience that even a 7 or 10 thousand pound trailer can be hard to stop or control in a panic stop. I like to minimize that effect as much as possible in order to be responsible and safe. When I need my trailer to stop NOW, I like the peace of mind I get from knowing that it will! I used the cheap controllers for years, then the Prodigy for another good length of time before I got a Max Brake. I also used to tow heavy loads with a 1967 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up. Just because I used to have this equipment and didn't die because, (or in spite!), of it doesn't mean I'm still willing to use it. There are safer things out there now.
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Guys I bought the MaxBreak because of a near miss with a small boy on his bike. I just had come off the 100 series highway and had set my controller so if I needed just a little break just to slow down. i had forgot to reset it for in town where I might have to stop sooner. Well the boy came out of a drive and I did not have the break set to give me the braking I needed. It was a close call and one I will not soon forget. I can now push on the break petal and lock up the fiver if needed. I feel much safer not have to constantly be adjusting the break controller. I read what MaxBreak says on there site and decided the theory sounded correct and I bought it. My life and my family are worth more to me than $350.00 . Had I run over the boy I know that do so would haunt me for the rest of my life ! I do believe that all break controllers should work as well as MaxBreak or not be sold . Shipping and brokerage fees and the exchange to US $ ,Made the cost well over $400.00 . I did install the unit myself and I feel much safer hauling my fiver. Thanks for your time. later Don T
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Originally Posted by j_martin
Just revisited the Montana accident with my son today. He said, as he remembers it:
1. He topped a hill, and the truck drivers started slipping.
2. He steered into it, and as he regained control, lightly hit the brakes, not even engaging them.
3. The trailer went sideways into oncoming traffic.

As I said before, the same pre-charge that makes parking an empty boat trailer, or maneuvering around a parking lot on ice a pain, locked up his trailer brakes and sent it out of control.

I do not think it wise to have a trailer brake controller that is not directly driven by the braking effort of the driver, including sensitive efforts as you would execute on ice. I am coming to the opinion that the pendulum controllers are downright dangerous, and their approval is criminal. pix of a smartbrake