W250, tire wear on one tire?
W250, tire wear on one tire?
Hey all, been to several alignment centers(five) and everyone keeps telling me the alignment is good. This is driving me nuts, on the right side outer most part of the tire I am getting wear. Does NOT happen on the other side.
This all started when I changed out my king pins upper and lower but that side had a shim, which I did keep in there. When I put a level too it with the shim on it was perfect. If I take the shim out it pushes the bubble to the outside of the vehicle. Which would cause the tire to wear on that outside edge.. so to counter that I kept the shim in. On jack stands and on a level floor it's level and I measured inner and outter base on tread front and back and I'm dead on. Typically I do get 1/16th of an inch but even that is pretty good.
I'm thinking about just taking the shim out, is this normal from factory? One of the alignment members mention axle warp but I'm pretty sure I would feel something. It drives good down the road and if you let off the steering wheel it pulls to the right. Almost thinking about buying this quick trick system.. I've spent so much in the last two weeks and now I need one tire.. HA
This all started when I changed out my king pins upper and lower but that side had a shim, which I did keep in there. When I put a level too it with the shim on it was perfect. If I take the shim out it pushes the bubble to the outside of the vehicle. Which would cause the tire to wear on that outside edge.. so to counter that I kept the shim in. On jack stands and on a level floor it's level and I measured inner and outter base on tread front and back and I'm dead on. Typically I do get 1/16th of an inch but even that is pretty good.
I'm thinking about just taking the shim out, is this normal from factory? One of the alignment members mention axle warp but I'm pretty sure I would feel something. It drives good down the road and if you let off the steering wheel it pulls to the right. Almost thinking about buying this quick trick system.. I've spent so much in the last two weeks and now I need one tire.. HA
a shim like in the upper king pin spring to increase pre-load? or a sim somewhere else like on the spindle? Might want to get a dial indicator guage and check the rim run-out, rotor runout and I would also look into tire as some off brands do some wonky things. I'm assuming no lift?
Its your king pin is worn. Pull the cap and look at the outer edge of the cup on the side and you will see it has worn down thinner than the opposing side.
This is indication that the pin itself is worn and should be replaced. OR you can do like others and just change the cup and the issue will crop back in a short time.
Good luck !
This is indication that the pin itself is worn and should be replaced. OR you can do like others and just change the cup and the issue will crop back in a short time.
Good luck !
yeah the shim is right on the knuckle. I'm going to take it off, set the rig back down and see if it's level on a level floor. I need new tires anyways (trying to find a good brand) so I want to get it right before I put those things on.
I'm needing tires as well - at least after I do the driver's king pin. I'll look at Toyo and Coopers first and see if I can find them in the proper size and load range. I have them on my Jeeps and have been very impressed with both.
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yeah it does follow if I move the back tire up. Run out is good and the tire for the rotor, wheel. There is also a very thin shim about 1/4” thick. I didn’t notice this... should that go too? I’ll needle air it off if so. The other side has non of this but I wonder if that will mess up my steering bar alignment.
What is this 1/4" shim shimming?
What does the shop alignment sheet say for camber and caster? (actual values)
I really encourage you to get a handle on doing your own alignments for this truck. There's only one adjustment on these trucks that an average shop is doing anyway (toe). The others need hard parts and/or creative solutions that aren't part of a normal alignment job.
What does the shop alignment sheet say for camber and caster? (actual values)
I really encourage you to get a handle on doing your own alignments for this truck. There's only one adjustment on these trucks that an average shop is doing anyway (toe). The others need hard parts and/or creative solutions that aren't part of a normal alignment job.
Have not taken this apart yet, been too dang cold! Tonight is suppose to be -35F.. yippee.
Anyone know of any good tire brands? Looking for something aggressive as I do forestry and some spots are a bit muddy. I might just get the same brand I have now, been a good tire.
https://www.falkentire.com/tires/lig...eak-m/t-tire-0
Anyone know of any good tire brands? Looking for something aggressive as I do forestry and some spots are a bit muddy. I might just get the same brand I have now, been a good tire.
https://www.falkentire.com/tires/lig...eak-m/t-tire-0
I've been a Goodyear fan for the last 12 years or so - Duratracs being the latest. Also being used by the forestry company my buddy works for. (Toyo M55 is use there also.)
Between the sizes myself a few friends run, the lower weight capacities seem to wear faster - probably softer compound.
Between the sizes myself a few friends run, the lower weight capacities seem to wear faster - probably softer compound.
I'm old school and LOVE the 7.50X16 Grip Spurs on my M880 (W200) and 9.00X16 Power Kings on my B3 but know they aren't practical for a newer vehicle that does highway time.
My XJ has Open Country A/T III | The All-Terrain Tires for Trucks, SUVs and CUVs | Toyo Tires and my KJ has Cooper® Discoverer® AT3 4S™: All-Terrain Tire | Cooper Tire. Neither are very aggressive but spend most of their time on pavement. Excellent in snow, probably not so much in deep mud but they do fine on the farm and hunting roads/trails.
I've been looking for a good aggressive affordable mud tire to replace the wornout, bias Grip Spurs on my W200. I think one can find two out of those three but not all three in one tire...
My XJ has Open Country A/T III | The All-Terrain Tires for Trucks, SUVs and CUVs | Toyo Tires and my KJ has Cooper® Discoverer® AT3 4S™: All-Terrain Tire | Cooper Tire. Neither are very aggressive but spend most of their time on pavement. Excellent in snow, probably not so much in deep mud but they do fine on the farm and hunting roads/trails.
I've been looking for a good aggressive affordable mud tire to replace the wornout, bias Grip Spurs on my W200. I think one can find two out of those three but not all three in one tire...
I've been a Goodyear fan for the last 12 years or so - Duratracs being the latest. Also being used by the forestry company my buddy works for. (Toyo M55 is use there also.)
Between the sizes myself a few friends run, the lower weight capacities seem to wear faster - probably softer compound.
Between the sizes myself a few friends run, the lower weight capacities seem to wear faster - probably softer compound.
I don't know which they prefer.
I know from my experience the duratrac has more siping and better in wet/ice/snow. I have them in load E. The M55 is harder, and wears longer on sharp gravel road; it also gets loud/droney the last 50% of its life.
I know from my experience the duratrac has more siping and better in wet/ice/snow. I have them in load E. The M55 is harder, and wears longer on sharp gravel road; it also gets loud/droney the last 50% of its life.
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