krazykarl454

does anybody have instructions on pining the VE pump? the rebuild pump im gettin, im pretty sure will be pinned. or can tell me where the plug is that i need to remove to pin it? also how is the gear held on? pressed, bolted?

thanks-karl

ChrisLib

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...19#post3013019

post#3

thrashingcows

You don't need to Pin/lock the old pump....really. If your front timing cover is off then just line up your timing marks and pull the pump. Then when you get your new pump...no special timing of the pump is required...you just line up the key way on the new pump with the key way on the timing gear and slide it in.

BearKiller

If you are gonna have BOTH pumps in hand at the same time, THIS is what I would do :

I would lock the shaft of the old pump BEFORE pulling the gear or loosening the three flange nuts.

I would KEEP the old pump locked until I had indexed the new pump to the exact same orientation as the old and locked it in that position.

Thus, the new will slide in where the old was and you will not have to spend hours determining top-center of the engine.

There is a little forked KEY, larboard side of the pump, close to the forward end and down low on the side, that is captured under a 10-MM bolt-head.

This key is keeping the pump un-locked.

Loosen the bolt until the key will slip out.

With the key gone, the bolt will now screw in enough to lock the shaft.


Be CERTAIN to un-lock the shaft and replace the key under the bolt-head when all is done.



The big nut on the pump-gear is 22-MM at first 18-ft.pds., then final torque at 48-ft.-pds.


Don't lose the key.

ChrisLib

Actually this is how I did mine, never bothered to find TDC, just make sure the new one is lined up the same as the old.

BearKiller

I just was at ACE hardware today and got myself two extra pump-shaft nuts and lock-washers, just to have in my VE accessories cabinet for the event that one should drop down the well, get swallered by a dog (dogs around here don't swallow stuff, they swaller it), or otherwise come up missing in action.

So long as I have the extra nuts, I will never lose one on a Saturday night.

Actually, I didn't really like the flatness of my lock-washer, but seeing as how I was doing this job in the middle of the holiday weekend, I made do with what I had.

I then got the extras so to be ready the next time.

The way I matched up the correct size/threads was I discovered the pump-nut would screw right on the center jack-screw of my Harbor Freight puller.

I took that jack-screw into ACE and, if I remember correctly, fine-thread 14-MM X 1.50; you will find them in the communist fastener section, the one's in the RED bins; don't waste time looking for them in the American bolt-bins.


To mate-index the new pump to the same orientation as the old, you will place a 1/2" American flat-washer on the threaded pump-shaft, then thread on a 14-MM X 1.50 nut snugly up against the flat-washer; just snug; no need to go at it like Goliath.

Now, with the pump firmly clamped in a vise, using a rigid 22-MM wrench or big Crescent wrench --- not a ratchet, as the ratchet will ratchet on over when the cam-plate is ready to drop off a roller, and the ratchet will not hold it's place --- slowly rotate the shaft until the key-way lines up PERFECTLY with your marks.

When you have the shaft positioned precisely on your alignment marks, while you hold the shaft, have your next-door neighbor's ex-wife's father-in-law's eldest son to firmly tighten the shaft locking bolt --- 10-MM wrench.



If your engine was shut-down normally and allowed to come to a rest all of it's own, I will bet ten-dollars to a post-hole that I can align that pump-shaft correctly and never see the old pump, nor the engine.

With the locked old pump in a vise, looking at the exposed end of the pump-shaft, the key-way on the shaft will be pointing toward twenty-minutes til five central standard time; and, the cam-plate will have just crested the rollers and be poised at the edge of the down-hill drop in 97 cases out of 112.


When marking the key-way orientation of the old pump and transferring these marks onto the new pump, precision is paramount;any little bit you veer will result in you having to winch the pump back into time once it is mounted.

krazykarl454

thanks for the info guys, yea i will have both in hand, and was trying to avoid pulling the front cover, and just slip the pump out the back. this is how i do alot of the mechanical CATS at work, you slowly rotate the motor over till u can pin the pump(on those theres a hole on the shaft where the tip of the bolt falls into, so it only pins in one position.) then i remove the old pump, and install the new pump which is pinned in the same spot. saves alot of bs time in pulling the fan, cover, shroud. so bearkiller im goin to try ur way. and ill let u guys know how it runs after im done. thanks again

BearKiller

There is no specific spot on these pump-shafts to "pin"; in fact, there is no pinning involved.

The lock-bolt is just a fairly normal bolt that presses against the shaft when it is tightened against it.

The shaft is perfectly round and smooth in the area of the lock-bolt.

These shafts can be locked at any spot of the 360* circumference.