I have the chance to buy a VE pump off of a 1993 Dodge Cummins engine that is sitting on a couple tires on the guy's shop floor. The the flywheel and trans adapter plate are gone. I'll be using the pump as a core to rebuild myself or as a backup.
How important is it that the engine be at TDC when the pump is removed? I've read a lot of contradictory info about this on the web.
If the pump must be at TDC when removed, what is the best way to rotate the engine without being able to use the normal barring tool? The engine still has the injectors in it.
Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks.

 

I am not sure about the pump having to be at TDC, but…
I have installed two flywheel bolts in the back of the crank to turn over my motor before.
I just used a long breaker bar between the bolts, and turned the motor over in the direction it would run.
I needed to turn the motor over to pull and re-torque the timing case bolts when doing the KDP on the gauntlet motor.

 

Pump does not have to be at TDC to remove. When you tear it down for the rebuild trust me it being at TDC doesn't matter anymore as it's in 78 pieces on your workbench.

TDC is a good place to put the engine at as with the front cover removed you can see the dots on crank and cam lined up as well as the dot on the cam facing the "E" on the pump gear BUT the pump is keyed to the gear so you can't really put it back wrong. You could take the pump off at any rotation degree of the motor, rebuild it and put it back on and it will be ok.

 

I agree with 1320...My experience is that you don't need any special TDC setting on the IP. Just line the keyway up with the timing gear when you go to install it, and it should be fine.

 

I meant engine NOT pump at TDC...DOHHH!
The pump is supposed to be good but not actually seeing it run I consider it a core. I'm probably not going to bother with finding TDC. Since its sitting on a couple tires I dunno if trying to turn it over with a pry bar through the flywheel bolts would work. It might end up flipping the motor over.

Thanks for the replies guys.

 

They turn over pretty easy usually, unless they are rusted up to the cylinder walls a little.
I doubt you would flip it over easily.

 

Engine at TDC for pump removal doesn't matter.

Big nut on timing gear and 3-13mm mounting nuts, a few other connections and off it comes.

 

if the belt is on it just turn it at the alternator.

 

Unless the engine spins over very easily and the belt and tensioner are in great shape, I find the belt just spins on the alt. pulley.

 

With as much compression as these cylinders create, the alternator won't do much.

Put a 15mm socket on one of the vibration damper bolts and use a 2ft breaker bar to rotate the crank.

 

Y'all question this method as if I haven't already done it, a lot. I fear change as well guys, it's ok.

 

Who said I fear change? I never said it couldn't be done. But in this case, the engine's sitting on the ground. I'd go straight to the crank. Just my preference.

 

Moot point since the accessories are all stripped off the engine.
I was going to put the gear back on the pump after I pull it to make sure it turns. Anything else I look for in a used IP?

 

I'd take all the hardware you can get away with.
Fuel banjo bolts, fuel lines, ect.

The gears can crack so take it if it's good.


If it's been sealed up, with the fuel lines connected it should be ok.
Has it been sitting in the weather or indoors?

 

Looks like it has been indoors. Injection lines are gone but the lines from the fuel filter are still there and sealed up. I plan on taking as many pieces as I can.