So ive got a stock 93 w 350, i turned the smoke screw in 3 times, turned the star wheel 3 times, and rotated my diaphram......

I then broke off the collar on the power screw , turned it in 2.5 turns and now the truck just idles high and wont shut off. I have a shutoff cable and when u pull it out it doesnt effect the truck at all.

Is it about to runaway? what do i need to do?

 

Did you do each of these adjustments one portion of a turn at a time and TEST before going further; or, did you do all of this at one time with no testing in between ??

If the manual lever will not kill the engine, then it is probably on the verge of a catastrophic runaway.


I would put everything back like it was and start over, making one minor adjustment at a time, testing as I went; it's the only way to know what helps and what hurts.

 

ive just read that 2.5 turns is fine, im gonna run it back in and start over.

i can have the truck running while im runnin it in cant i?

 

Running the power screw in on an intercooled truck results in the fuel shutoff solenoid going bad. Its a $15 item but it'll keep going bad until you do this- https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=117593

Heres the new one- http://www.dieselvw.com/PumpSolenoid.htm

Or you could just hook up a cable to your shutdown lever on the side of the pump and become part of the "cable club"

The reason the shutdown solenoid goes bad is because when you turn up the screw the pressure increases and the fuel can't get through the small injectors the I/c trucks have and the fuel comes in/out harder and takes the rubber tip off the solenoid plunger that goes down and stop flow.

 

what happens to that little peace of rubber that blows off where does it go

 

You don't want to know.

 

It happens on Non I/C trucks too. Just not as common.

 

I could not find mine its a little scaaarrryyyy

 

Our 92 we had when you'd shut off the key the truck would keep running because the rubber was hanging off the solenoid and wasn't really stopping fuel flow, it was just restricting it and making it run crappy,

My version of a valet switch except with this one you have no dash lights, no anything because the key is off,

People get freaked out when you're going down the road, take the key out and hand it to them and the engine is still running, then to top it off when you stop, you pull a cable to make the engine die. gotta love it

 

yes it is about to run away make sure the air filter boot is off the front of the turbo and you have a piece of wood to stop the thing it it runs away. just slip it over the housing where you took the air filter off the turbo. dont let it hit the fins!

 

Ive already got a cable though, I guess ill just the try the modifying the plunger method.

besides the mods ive done............are there any more freebees?

 

Bump the timing? Did you rotate the fuel pin? make a BHAF ? Straight pipe?? I think you should get gauges next.

Now you gottta first gen you have to get used to this thread here
Its at the top of the 1st gen board if you push ''back" on your browser

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t102027.html

Scroll down to "peformance "

 

Well i havent bumped the timing, I have rotated the diaphram and ive got k&n in it and straight pipe to stacks.

Yes gauges are in order................anybody got some for cheap, or any recomendations on where to get them?

 

www.genosgarage.com

They have the GOOD 2 gauge pod pillars for 1st gens and the steering column 1 gauge POD.