Part-1

So here is what I did to my truck this last week.

I had an exhaust leak at the flange of my turbo down pipe



And rather than try and weld on a repair flange I decided to replace the entire pipe with a Diamond Eye Down pipe thanks in part to the suggestions of those who answered my post.

Here is the factory down pipe connected to my 3" exhaust.



Removing the factory pipe.



Then the new 4" DE down pipe was loosely secured to the turbo flange from the bottom up so it could be later positioned.



I was surprised how much extra room there was with this being 4" over the factory 3" pipe.

The DE drops almost straight down from the turbo instead of being swept back at an angle.



Massive, Impressive with absolutely no interference with any part of the frame.



I was tempted to start it and run it around the block but it was up on the rack and sure I would have attracted some unwanted attention.



To connect to my 3" Banks Exhaust I then slipped a Walker 4"x 3" reducer over the downpipe.



And then had a new 3" pipe made to connect to the inlet of my muffler.

Here you can see I choose to use the more costly Stainless Steel Band Clamps that cost about $13.00 apiece.



We kept the new 3" pipe as straight as possible with only 1 bend

 

Part-2

Side view with just enough showing from the outside to make people wonder what you have.

(There is a clamp for both sides of the reducer)

I choose to use the stainless steel band clamps so I can simply loosen them and slide the entire 4"x3" reducer rearwards to disconnect the turbo from the exhaust system.



My heat shield to help deflect the heat radiated from the turbo and down pipe



Old 3" factory down pipe.



New 4" DE down pipe, now has lots of surface area to burn your knuckles on when checking the ATF



A good view of the heat shield and my custom 3" crossover pipe.



Also since I had my transmission rebuilt and I had turned the fuel screw back out 1 1/2 turns in an attempt to keep from tearing up my torque converter, I turned it back in 1/2 turn to get a little lost power back but still no haze at WOT, now it is idling a bit too high even with the idle screw backed out.

It looks like I need to re-index the throttle shaft by one notch unless there is another secret trick you have found.

Impressions:

D.E. makes a nice product, everything fit with no interference, nothing to bend or modify.

EGT seem lower,

The engine feels like it runs better and feels like it spools up quicker,

The truck does seem a have a bit more mechanical rattle to the idle, everybody loves me at the fast food drive-through.

(Got to love the rattle of mechanical injection)

I think I can hear my turbo whine inside the truck but I am not sure, my hearing is still all muffed up.

I will post a video of as soon as I get it off my camera.

Pure Diesel Power, LLC
Sub-Total: $83.95
United Parcel Service (1 x 10lbs) (Ground): $16.54
Total: $100.49

So what do you think.

Jim

 

Looks great man! The only thing is the truck is disgustingly clean! lol

 

Looking good Mr. Lane. Much less hassle this way.

 

I would have took it around the block. My luck I would have been pulled over haha.

Yeah the DE stuff is really good and the price is right. The only complaint I have with their system is my muffler is rusting. I live in the salt belt, so I'm going to need to figure out a nice preventive for that.

 

I put a DE kit in a friends truck, and a downpipe in mine. Painted it with high temp paint before installing. They're both holding up nicely.

Jim, you could fix your idle issue by bending the tab that sits against the idle screw, although that method isn't ideal.

BTW, did you get my PM?

 

That brake master cylinder looks out of place.

Just think how much you would gain with a full 4" system. I picked up 4 pounds of boost and dropped ~125*.

 

Thats a good lookin engine bay!

 

Now that I have the new Diamond Eye 4" downpipe installed, I thought I would give you a sound check to see how it sounds.

I was afraid that it was going to make my truck too loud but I really do not think it is bad.

I live in a fairly quiet neighborhood and I try to be inconspicuous when I drive but for some reason everybody knows it is me.

My Siberian Husky can hear me for over a half of a mile before I get home, she gets excited and comes to the bedroom sliding door and watches for me on the surveillance monitor

Idling left side,

Click Here.
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/Lane...36b21.mp4.html



Idling right side,

Click Here.
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/Lane...79fc7.mp4.html



Cruising down the freeway, this is 75-80 MPH

Click Here.
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/Lane...789ea.mp4.html



This is the only way I could think of to host using Photobucket and still get a preview,

I hope this Photobucket issue gets figured out soon, it has been messed up for several months now.

Jim

 

I like it, when I removed the stacks from my truck and switch to the DE complete system. I was really happy with the sound. It actually doesn't give me a pounding headache. The next thing I need to do is put some sort of sound dead material inside the cab. Jim, What are you using? Sounds really quiet inside the truck. Right now my cab is down to the bare metal and I'm trying to decide if I want to go with a mat or a truck bed coating.

 

Jim, that "Factory" down-pipe should've included clamp that attaches the down-pipe to the transmission's bell-housing. As such, the clamp takes the load off that flange (as in flexing load with the movement of the engine).

You might consider adding a mount so as to eliminate the new down-pipe from cracking at the flange.


As far as that too high idle, loosen the turn-buckle linkage between the throttle bell-crank and the throttle lever on the IP.

 

David,
It seems that factory mount was MIA, I do not recall seeing it as far back as when I installed my Banks Exhaust over 10 years ago but there was a small bracket bolted to the bellhousing but I could never find what the bracket looked like.

When I installed the new downpipe I made a bracket off the transmission and it is secured to the tubing using a stainless steel band clamp.

(I will look for a picture of it.)
Now with the exhaust disconnected the pipe is secured in a neutral position.

I will look a the injection pump closer, with the throttle disconnected from the bell-crank, and the idle screw backed out where it is not touching, it still idles a bit too high, think I need to re-index the shaft maybe 1 spline.

The fuel screw has been turned in but not enough, and the timing bumped so nothing is where it should be.

WOT= very little haze but the truck is still quick so I must need more fuel.

I just need to find the time to get under the hood in between jobs and no sleep.

Jim