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turbo upgrade suggestions

Old Sep 28, 2010 | 11:13 PM
  #16  
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Sounds like the way to go! appreciate it guys.So I was looking around,and I see alot of the he351 vgt's not the cw's whats the differance?
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:01 AM
  #17  
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the ve or vgts have the variable exhaust housing, the cw's dont. Some guys have put the ve or vgts on there trucks but its a little more work and you have to figure out a way to control it or get a stand alone controller.

Yeah I'd say the he351cw is good for at least 40 lbs of boost then it starts to get warm, which is probably because of drive pressure. but from 30 to 40 lbs it cools real well and pulls hard, i was surprised.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #18  
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I have yet to see anyone put out good numbers with a he351cw but I have seen good numbers from the 60mm upgrade. That's my 2 cents about the he351cw.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 12:12 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by archer39
I have yet to see anyone put out good numbers with a he351cw but I have seen good numbers from the 60mm upgrade. That's my 2 cents about the he351cw.
So to me this looks like the stock turbo,rebuilt with 60mm upgrade?

Yes?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Reman...Q5fAccessories
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by archer39
I have yet to see anyone put out good numbers with a he351cw but I have seen good numbers from the 60mm upgrade. That's my 2 cents about the he351cw.
I second that I have the upgrade on mine and drive my buddys with the cw mine is better just mt two pennies !
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by archer39
I have yet to see anyone put out good numbers with a he351cw but I have seen good numbers from the 60mm upgrade. That's my 2 cents about the he351cw.
check 92smokin blackys sig. He dynoed just as good as you when you dynoed your A518.

It is much easier just to upgrade the H1C compressor wheel though.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #22  
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I spoke with G.D.S.'s turbo tech guy.I think hes talked me into doing the 60mm upgrade and a rebuild kit for my H1C...That should take care of lowering the EGT's and thats my biggest concern.

Sure appreciate you guys helping me out with this and learning me somthing.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 05:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by The_Head
check 92smokin blackys sig. He dynoed just as good as you when you dynoed your A518.

It is much easier just to upgrade the H1C compressor wheel though.
yes but my 518 was trashed and his was decent.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 07:17 PM
  #24  
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From: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
those he351 turbos hit soo hard down low that i think the autos just slip while the h1c takes a second longer to spool maybe letting the trans grab some more...
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 09:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JustRamIt91
those he351 turbos hit soo hard down low that i think the autos just slip while the h1c takes a second longer to spool maybe letting the trans grab some more...
yeah i was thinkin the same thing but yet i don't know cuz this laggier aurora makes it slip more then it did with that he351, but it does kick in really hard.

Yes I did make 307hp with my he351 and bone stock a518. My tranny isn't trash, but its not good either, it has gotten worse since then. Also keep in mind i have pods and not 435 injectors and i'm not running a lot of timing. I think my truck just ran out of fuel when i dynoed cuz i can suck my fuel pressure down to 0 now that i have a gauge installed. I did hit 42 lbs of boost on the dyno and it got a little warm, so drive pressure was probably a bit of an issue too. But the he351 definately has my respect for what it is. I also I have a bigger intercooler now. I need to get a better fuel supply, and then i am half tempted to keep this stock tranny in til march and dyno again with the he351 and then with the aurora and then later with the 47rh to see what differences things made.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 01:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rockmike
I have a 93 d350 5 speed, rock stock.

What Ive done: bhaf
rotated fuel pin for most fuel
trimmed plastic spacer under fuel pin
turned star wheel cw 1.5 turns
turned screw on top of pump(under that cap) cw 2 turns.

What im getting ready to do:

Bought diamond eye 4" w/muffler

What I want to do:

replace inj.pump with a new ve inj. pump (ive already horse traded for it,new in bag)
replace diaphram lift pump with piston style(maybe)I have another new diaphram style unit I could just use(opinions on wich to use would be helpfull)
increase Timeing on ve pump
crank in power screw on ve pump(the one with the tacked on metal cap)
So back to the question.Im not looking at making gobbs of power,just want a lil more and am concerned about egt's(Its really hot where I live) The rig will be mostly used to pull a 26' inclosed trailer with a 4x4 in back and camping gear (its a poor mans toy hauler)

Ive read somthing about changing the cold air side housing to lower egt's and asuming the smaller i.d. housings the 16cm ,18cm etc are the hot side modifications?

Could y all steer me in the right direction...that isnt a buut load of $$ and just use the stock turbo with a rebuild kit....or am I way off on this? and just need to swap the whole **** thing out?

Thanks....cummins newb.
If your set on upgrading your current turbo (not a bad way to go) and are worried about EGTs while towing, don't go to a smaller turbine housing. Live with the little lag the 18 has. Upgrade the compressor to the 60mm. They run cooler were they are doing the hardest work for the longest. Don't get carried away with the fuel screw, to the collar is good enough. As for timing, don't move it. Get an M&H timing spacer instead. Bumping you timing sacrifices your low end in favor of your top end. The spacer gives you both.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 06:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by archer39
I have yet to see anyone put out good numbers with a he351cw but I have seen good numbers from the 60mm upgrade. That's my 2 cents about the he351cw.
Don't know what you define as good #'s but see my sig, and the dyno guy thinks that he could of hit close to 400 800 if I would of let him run it harder and used 5th. Also I got 3 turns left on my fuel screw.
NOW let it be said, I'm not saying it will support 5xx HP, but it's working for me till the funds show for the Garrett.
NOT TRYING TO START A WAR ABOUT HOW GOOD OR HOW BAD TURBOS ARE EITHER, JUST SAYING!!!
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 08:59 PM
  #28  
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From: Oak Hills (Cajon Pass Summit), Ca
Originally Posted by rockmike
I spoke with G.D.S.'s turbo tech guy.I think hes talked me into doing the 60mm upgrade and a rebuild kit for my H1C...That should take care of lowering the EGT's and thats my biggest concern.

Sure appreciate you guys helping me out with this and learning me somthing.
This thread is really good for me too.

Where could I get a 60mm rebuild kit for my stock 93 turbo?

thanks
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 09:34 PM
  #29  
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From: A 5th dimension, beyond that which is known to man.
i want to see what dynos and correction factors.. i see a lot of 300-400hp 1st gens that shouldnt be making anywhere near that. (not picking on anyone in this thread directly)
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 07:06 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ClassA4x4
This thread is really good for me too.

Where could I get a 60mm rebuild kit for my stock 93 turbo?

thanks
Gillette Diesel Service seems to be a popular place, although I'm not sure if they're the only ones. I wonder if the DTR store has any?
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