Well, it looks like the $150 eBay WH1C turbo has turned out to be not such a good bargain after all.

When I got it I noticed the exhaust housing was cracked. I found a good housing on eBay so I bought it to replace the cracked one.

When I took it off I discovered not only was it cracked but the turbine wheel was partly melted and aluminum metal was strung throughout the housing! AFAIK the compressor housing and wheel are OK though.

So the question for you turbo gurus is:

Can I take the wheel off the WH1C and put it on the shaft of the H1C and then put the WH1C housings on the H1C hub assy?

Will the housings fit on the H1C hub and wheels without changing the compressor wheel?

What else can I do to get a complete turbo?



Edwin

 

I don't think any of that stuff is interchange-able, but more knowledgeable folks will chime in here. IMHO, send it to HTT or Piers as a core and get a fresh, balanced and upgraded hybrid that's ready to rock. I'm saving my pennies to do just that....the suspense is killing me
greg

ps, too bad about the bum turbo.

g

 

I'm thinking more than .030 play and it's not rbuildable, if I remember right.

 

Neither turbo has any play at all. Just the turbo wheel on the WH1C is toast along with the housing.

I bought a good housing though on eBay so I'm wondering if I can put the good housing on my H1C to get a 12 cm WG hybrid turbo. Then I can send in the WH1C as a core to get something better when I have the money. That was my original intent anyway but I saw a complete WH1C on eBay for $150 so I snapped it up. But I'm the one who got snapped.

Edwin

 

well, for 150 you didn't get creamed, really. Plus, you have a core while still having a functional truck! I would go for putting the 12cm on---instant boost should feel pretty awesome compared to the 18 cm housing. That should pacify your bombing needs till you can afford the hybrid (yeah right). Slap that 12 on, read up on turbo flutter/barking w/a 5 speed and drive!
greg

 

You can swap the whole compressor section (wheel and housing) from the WH1C to the H1C if you want. There's no guarantee that it will be well balanced, I'd suggest having a turbo shop balance it if you plan to run it long term. If you are really lucky the wheels are the same size and you can just swap housings, that's just a clamp and you're done - no balance worries.

The nut on the shaft is left hand.

 

So I could take the compressor wheel and housing off the WH1C and put it on the H1C shaft then put the good housing on and have a good working WH1C with maybe a little vibration if the balance isn't right.

How bad could the balance be and what ill effects could I get if it's way out?

I'm still leaning toward the housing swap though since I won't have to mess with mating the WH1C outlet to my smaller crossover pipe. I'll probably have to cut some out of the exhaust pipe since I think it will hit the firewall otherwise.

Edwin

 

You got it.

At worst it will wear the bearings prematurely, it won't be really bad. It's an OK short term (a year or so) solution, but if you get it balanced it will run indefinitely.

If you don't run the WH1C compressor you will get surging/flutter.

The exhaust will clear by a gnat's whisker. It may "heat clearance" the sound insulation over the heater box just a little.

 

Hmmmm... Aren't the wheels going to be balanced independently? If so then I shouldn't have much of a problem with them. If they're static balanced together you could get a condition that's much worse. I figure I could do it by trial and error by spinning it with compressed air and then rotating the wheel a bit at a time until it is a good as I can get it. What do you think?

We have a good muffler shop in town so it shouldn't be much of a problem for them to cut out an inch of the pipe and weld it back up. I don't like the idea of a fire under the hood.

Edwin

 

i think the wheels are a little different size. and like dave said, you will be much happier with with the wh1c housing anyway. it would be pretty easy to grind the lip off the new housing too. or you could think of this as the perfect time to upgrade to an intercooler.

dave

 

Got no more money for the IC. If I did I'd opt for the Banks package for simplicity. I like it when things just bolt together.

I was considering grinding the lip off the comp housing then I just need a reducer hose to go to my stock crossover pipe. The stock crossover has a 2 inch size on the input end but I don't see how to remedy that restriction without doing some welding which I can't do. I think I can compensate with the WG adjustment anyway but need to get a boost and pyro gauges.

Since the WH1C is trashed anyway I can make mods and not affect it's resale value. I was hoping to have the intact H1C left over as a backup but now it looks like I'll have to combine things and just have a few parts left over.

It's supposed to be warm tomorrow so maybe I'll tear into it some more. I need a few more parts however before I can start. I don't want to be without my truck while waiting on parts.

Anyway, this should be a fun project. I just wish the turbine blades weren't melted. Looks like somebody let the EGT's get to high. Let this be a lesson to everyone.

What are the turbine wheels made of anyway?

Edwin

 

I just installed an intercooled H1C turbo on my non I/C engine.
I also had a compressor housing from a WH1C that I had to put on to stop the compressor wheel "flutter".
The comp wheel , housing and outlet from the WH1C is larger than the "baby H1C" that comes on the non I/C engines.
Temporarily I have a silicone adapter hose stretched over the outlet flange and over the stock intake crossover tube..clamped on both sides. It works well.
I bought the adapter hoses from http://www.roadraceengineering.com/hoseandclamps.htm
2 to 2.5 inch is what I'm using now.
I have a permanent larger 3 inch dia crossover pipe made and painted....just waiting for another size adapter hose and a T bolt clamp...then it will be completed.
I also have an intake horn from a Freightliner...a cast unit that's a full 3 inch ID. I won't have much for restriction soon.....
Jay

 

Jay: Can you put some pics of your setup in your gallery?

Edwin

 

Edwin,
I will, but it will have to be early next week...I'm on my way to the airport right now...or will be in a few minutes.
(don't feel sorry for me...I'm going to our manufacturing plant in Brazil near Rio)

But I'll take some shots when I return.
Actually if you go into TDR and look up DPuckett's reader's rig pics you'll see what mine looks like now as a temp solution.

Jay

 

Well, I pulled the WH1C completely apart today and the comp wheel and housing are in good shape. I cleaned up the 12 cm housing I bought so it's ready to go now. Next I need to get a reducing hose to mate the larger housing up to my stock crossover pipe and some hose to hook up the WG diaphram. Then I should be good to go.

I turned the regulator down on my AC to about 30 psi and used a rubber tip on my air gun to test the WG. It opened at around 30-35 psi but I don't know how much I trust that 50 cent gauge on the AC. If I had a boost gauge I could get a better IDEA of where the WG will open and adjust it before I put it on the truck.

When I got the cracked housing off there was metal coating its insides and there were cracks running all through it. Somebody really got it hot. The wheel wasn't that bad except for the places on the tips where it shead metal. I sure don't want to put it in a truck though. Probably would vibrate like the devil and maybe explode. Might be fun though.

I'll post more when I install it on the truck in a week or two.

Thanks everyone.

Edwin