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Turbo removed...now what?

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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 12:08 AM
  #1  
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Turbo removed...now what?

So I removed the turbo completly to drill the hole in my exhaust manifold for the pyro,now that I got it off,I thought I may as well replace the 21cm housing with the 16cm housing,question is how do I remove the 21cm housing from the rest of the turbo,I removed the four 13mm bolts,and sprayed loosening oil on the joint,and tapped it lightly with a hammer,but it seems quite tite,do I need to get more agressive?

Also when I put It together,do I need to prime the turbo?if so how?

Sorry for all the questions,but I'm just learning this diesel thing,I used to build jeeps.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 12:48 AM
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From: Longview, WA
Tap all around the housing. You can hit it, just don't wail on it. Mine came off easily by holding the turbo so that the exhaust housing was pointed down and tapping on it a few times. It fell right off.

As for putting it back together, apply a little anti-sieze to the housing and the bolts. Remount it and hook up the oil drain line. Be sure to use a new gasket. Pour a little clean oil into the top oil inlet and let it drain down. Reconnect the oil line and you are ready to go.

Carl
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 01:51 AM
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From: Colorado
Be as gentle as you can but I had one that took some serious work to get apart. I hate to say it but an air hammer finally jarred it loose. Some arnt to bad and some are fooze up tight.
Good luck
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 03:38 AM
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From: San Marcos, TX
A few solid thumps with a small sledge hammer will knock it loose in most cases. Make sure you hit the housing all the way around, and not just in one spot. Also, make sure the housing comes off evenly and not cocked over, resulting in the turbine wheel hitting the housing, possibly bending/breaking a blade on the wheel.

Like the above suggestions...to do it right, use new bolts (8mmx.125) and Anti-Seize or Kopr-Kote, a new flange gasket, and prime the turbo by pouring in fresh oil into the oil-inlet, before re-installing the feed line.

FYI- Be sure not to bend the oil-feed line around too much. Carbon build-up and oil deposits in the line can break apart and enter the turbo, destroying it. If you can, remove the feed line & steam/pressure clean it, or replace it with a new one from Cummins or Dodge.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 10:17 AM
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From: Mustang, OK
I have found that a little heat will loosen up the housing enough to tap it off. Take a torch and heat the housing all the way around and then try and get it off.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 04:26 PM
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Mine took 20 minutes of bashing (with a variety of hammers up to and including a 2 lb sledge) before it even started to move, then another 20 minutes of light tapping to get it all the way off. Keep at it, it'll come off eventually.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 11:28 PM
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The guys are right on this one... they can almost fall apart or they can hang on like 'yo moma to her last shoe"...
Just make sure that after each "round" of wacking in the "4 compass points", so to speak, you spin the pinwheel with your finger to make sure you're not binding up.
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 09:14 AM
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Thanx guys,I gotter apart last nite without killing anything,I was a little surprized that the turbo shaft didnt spin more freely than it does,if I give it a quik twist with my fingers,it only spins two or three revs,then stops,is this normal?
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 10:54 AM
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Should spin freely and smoothly. Does it wobble? Any noise? Slight in and out play is expected, but there shouldn't be any side to side.
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 11:45 AM
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From: Richmond, VA
Fill it with clean engine oil and turn it gently. The bearings "float" in the turbo, and if you squeaze all of the oil out of them, you will find there is excessive play and friction. If you can get oil in it and it spins freely afterward, then you are okay, if not, looks as though you have a problem.

Good luck, I hope it is okay for you.
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 03:55 PM
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From: New Holland, PA
2 or 3 turns sounds normal to me.
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