I think I might be hearing bad stuff....

when the truck idles I kind of hear a rattling like sound, but can't trace its source with the motor clattering away (last 5000mi or so)

turn the truck off and run to the front with the hood open and I can definitely hear the bearing whine on the turbo as it rolls to a stop.

I've always been mindful to shut it down properly and have always serviced the truck as it should have. Are the days numbered for this turbo?

 

I can hear mine a little as well, it's only a year old. But it checks ok.
With the engine off, remove the intake hose to the turbo.
Grab the shaft and check for both axial and radial play.
It can move a few thousanths of an inch. I forget the exact specs.
If it hits the housing it's toast and must be changed asap.
Hope thi shelps.
Jay

 

Jay is right. On the front and back play. You should have none. What people call the turbo bearing is just a brass sleeve with holes in it to allow oil to get between the shaft and the sleeve and take out the clearance while running.

 

The brass "bearings" or "bushings" literally FLOAT inside the bearing housing and on the turbine shaft on a layer of oil. If the wheels have side-to-side (or up&down) play...the bearings are worn and need immediate replacing before things get worse...

If the turbo has in & out play then the THRUST BEARING/PLATE is worn out... This happens alot with the pulling trucks when you hear the turbo "bark". If this Thrust Bearing/Plate gets worn too badly, the small oil passages inside will get blocked by worn brass like it was smeared across the holes like butter. This will result in lack of oil, and costly damage.

The Bearings/Bushings & Thrust Bearing/Plate are included in the kits that we install in all turbochargers, along with other necessary parts. Holsets bearings are heavy duty, and we recommend only using Genuine Holset service parts.

Get that turbo fixed before you have to buy a whole new one!!

 

Keep in mind the typical rebuild is the cheapest & easiest way to get your turbo back up to par... Any turbo shop like ours should have all the required parts in stock and it sould be able to be rebuilt within a few hours or so. Prices vary between shop to shop, but typical rebuild costs are $285-$350 if it is rebuildable using only a "kit".

A replacement of the Cartridge or "CHRA" will run in the upwards of $450-600 direct from Holset. A Cartridge is basically the center section of the turbocharger with both wheels...minus the compressor housing & turbine housing...

If your wheels have been rubbing the housings, they might not be salvageable...an entire replacement of a turbo is hard on the wallet...

 

what's the cost of moving up to the 2nd gen turbo? That's the normal modification done, right?

 

Jeremy's description of how the turbo bearings work is correct, but I would have to disagree about the radial play. Because the bushings float on oil, there is more side play in them than one would expect, once you force the oil out. So if you grab the end of the shaft and give it a strong wiggle (squeezing the oil film out), you will normally find enough play to get worried. As long as there is no end play, though, and nothing is scraping the housing, and there aren't any oil leaks, you are okay.

I nearly needed a fresh change of underwear the first time I checked the play in a turbo -- thought it was shot even though there was nothing wrong .

 

A rebuilt will cost you a little under $700, Ebay averages around $400. Used ones in the classifieds are $500 or so.

 

I agree with asilitch. I thought my turbo was shot until I talked to TexasHardcore. Mine does leak alittle however. Any thoughts on how much is too much oil in the turbo?

Jeremy, I called your boss like you asked. He said you can pick me up at the airport! LOL