OK I have the truck all bottoned up, new piston lift pump, new fuel heater from a 2nd Gen, and the VE pump resealed, only thing changed was the 3200 spring. Everything else was put back to stock settings.

So I have been cranking, and cranking, and have fuel at all the injectors, although it doesn't seem to be squirting like it should, more just running out. The motor seems to want to start, it will stumble at 1/2 to full throttle, but won't catch and run.

I have checked my index on the throttle shaft and it is right where it was when disassembled. Fuel screw and idle screw was reset to exact measurement as well using a digital caliper.

I have read through all the stickies, and Crosby sons thread and others as well. But I have a gleam of life so I'm hoping I can get it going with a little tweaking.

Thoughts?

 

I would double check that your lift pump is working. Don't laugh! When I did my fuel system the 'brand new' lift pump was bad from the factory...took me a day of diagnosis to figure that one out...and I dropped the tank twice. Also, you may want to check for air at the heater/lp connections. It sounds exactly like what happened to me. Truck would ALMOST start...

 

I did more reading through the sticky and such last night. And I think my lack of fuel pressure at the injectors might point to the ball connection on the control collar.

Also when you remove your throttle linkage on the top of the pump, how easy, or not, should you be able to turn the indexed shaft? Mine moves very easy and makes a sound like something it loose inside.

I think I will pop the top off and see what's going on.

 

Pulled the top off, checked to make sure the ball was in the control collar and moving properly...Yup. Hooked everything back up and still the same thing...stumbles but won't fire.

I get fuel at all cylinders, but it's weak. Not spraying at all, more just leaking out. And number 2 cylinder just dripples a little bit, not near as much as the other cylinders.

Thoughts?

 

I know I will get bashed but I would un hook the grids and use starting fluid to get her going. Maybe that will help it pick up its prime.

 

Just pulled the oil filler, and then popped off the nut and washer to check the key. It appears it's in place, so the pump is timed and turning. I did my KDP and case bolts at the same time so I turned the motor over until the timing marks were lined up, then locked the pump. Everything went back together perfect so timing shouldn't be an issue.

 

Did you use the spacer when you put the piston LP on?

 

Thats a good question I forgot about that.

 

Yes Sir...gasket, spacer, gasket, piston lift pump.

 

I don't think this was asked, but did you check the fuel filter?

 

I just tried moving my index on the throttle shaft one notch tighter, to the middle notch, truck sputters even more then before. With the stock setting it would only sputter once every few rotations, now it will sputter almost constantly.

I tried to get it set on the last mark but there is too much spring tension and can't get the shaft to rotate enough to line up.

Here's the pic of when I disassembled it...

 

Fuel filter is good, it has maybe 700 miles on it.

I removed it carefully then stored it upright with rags covering it so it wouldn't accumulate any debris inside. I reinstalled it and then bled the system until I had fuel running out the small bleeder on the outlet side of the filter housing.

 

OK I think something else is happening now. I have been using a bypass switch to crank the engine over while under the hood. One connection on the small wire on the starter, then the other to the positive battery terminal.

It has been cranking fine, but now it's trying to start and run! I have the ignition off on the column but it is still stumbling like it's trying to fire. It shouldn't do this unless something in the electrical has gone funky.

This got me concerned so I've disconnected the air intake tube on the turbo and now have a piece of wood ready to choke out the motor if it decides to try and run away.

Thoughts?

 

Do you have power to the FSS? Why dont you have the key on I am confused. With out the key on you will not have any power to the fss and it wont start.

 

^ he beat me to it.. that was going to be my next suggestion, wouldnt be the first time people have replaced/upgraded and something totally irrelivant (how ever thats spelled) went south on them...