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Truck won't run after fixing leaking fuel pin!

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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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From: Paradise, MT
Truck won't run after fixing leaking fuel pin!

I did the leaky fuel pin repair as per the sticky and installed the 366 spring. My truck ran just long enough to adjust the idle and then quit. I was worried that I dropped the washer from the top hat into the pump so I pulled the whole pump off and couldn't find anything. (got a top hat off of another pump) I'm going to put the pump back on tomorrow and hope it was just sucking air or something. Can anyone think of anything I need to check or could have done wrong? The procedure seemed too simple to screw up but who knows.
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 07:06 PM
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did you index the throttle shaft as it was before you pulled it? seems to be a common problem when putting everything back together.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 08:03 AM
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I did index the throttle shaft.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:02 AM
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Did you take out the full power screw and put it back in? It might not be in far enough if you took it out.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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Also, did you bleed the air out of the system after putting everything back together? You may have had just enough fuel to run before air locking the injectors.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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usually when only taking the top off, the fuel still remains in the hydraulic head of the pump unless it was drained of all fuel. so unless that happened, there should be no need to purge any air out of the lines. when i resealed my fuel pin and installed the 366 spring, i put it all back together and she fired right up. no bleeding at all.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 05:46 PM
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Well I pulled the pump off, looked for broken parts, couldn't find any. I put everything back together. Now it has a clatter on start up, no power and no black smoke. I retarded the pump as far as I could and this fixed some of it. Could I have jumped a tooth on the gear?
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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It sounds to me like The Head is on the right track.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 07:29 AM
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I didn't lock the fuel pump before I took it out. I think that might be the problem. The full power screw is in up to the damaged threads.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 07:33 AM
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I didn't realize you took the pump OFF the truck, sorry. Sounds like you need to re-time it.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 07:57 AM
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I just got done watching the videos on replacing the fuel pump. That would have made my life easier. How do I re-time the pump to TDC?
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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As long as you get the key in the keyway it will be close 'nuff. What often happens is that the key gets mashed...
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 06:00 AM
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Ok, I pulled the pump off again and the key was smashed. I replaced the key and got the motor to TDC then I turned the pump till the key lined up with the mark on the front of the pump next to the shaft and locked it in that position. The pump went back on a lot easier than the first time. The truck runs pretty well right now but I have a lot less power and only making 15 pounds of boost. Could this still be a timing issue? I was also thinking that I could have put the fuel pin in 180 off. I plan on checking that in the morning. I also have run out of adjustment in the low idle screw and I think it is still idling a little high.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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Double check your fuel pin. As for the idle being high, it's common. You'll just have to reindex the throttle shaft one notch clockwise. You may have to turn the idle screw back up a little afterwards but that will get you in the adjustable range again.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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Fuel pin was where it was supposed to be. Seems to pull alright in second gear but past that it is pretty weak. Not as much smoke when shifting between gears as there was before either. The AFC is off of a different pump. That shouldn't have an effect should it?
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