So, now I'm thinking I should replace the rear main seal. Of course I can't get one before the weekend, though...so it'd be tuesday or wed at the earliest...so much for wrapping this project up this weekend, I guess!

DoH!

 

getting rid of the parts truck is the hardest part in my opnion...

 

is it leaking???

 

Ok...made a little progress again today:

Rear Main Seal...replaced! Not too bad of a job...although I think removing everything from the flywheel back is the real tough part.

Flywheel/Clutch/Pressure Plate/Housing installed!

The only real issue I ran into with the clutch install was that there are two dowels to align the bellhousing. Both of these dowels ended up in the same spot...one on the bellhouse and one on the engine. DOh! That was a fun little endevour to get them swapped around.

But it's in!

Next step: Cut hole in floor for shifter, continue sealing transmission. Then I'll install the tranny, then it's time to get serious with the seal kit for the transfer case.

and the fun don't stop!

 

I finished the work today by cutting a hole in the cab and sealing up the Getrag.

I was going to install the transmission, but then realized I still had some work to do under the truck. Mainly the 4x4 pivot where the shifter meets the bracket is frozen. I need to spend a little time on that, and I also need to hook up the clutch. I figure those things will be a little easier w/o the tranny in the way.

I'm also thinking of stripping and painting (maybe even POR15) the rear crossmember. Mine is crusty something awful.

I also spent a good time today thinking about how long this is taking me vs. some of the posts I've seen where people have swapped their auto for a stick, 'in an afternoon'.

Lolz

 

i'd be on your side, i'd want everything double and triple checked so i don't run into problems down the road... a day or even a month later because i forgot a bolt or something started leaking. Have any pictures?

 

Yeah, it just seems to make sense.

Sure, I might not have needed a new main seal, butttt....

and sure, the clutch I had might have lasted another few years, buttttt...

Ah well. I'm getting so close I can TASTE it. lol.

My only real concerns right now are with the wiring. I need to figure out the backup lights and I would guess some workaround to starting the truck when it isn't in 'park'.

 

The backup lights are the two outer wires on the auto netural safety switch plug. The center wire is the netural wire itself.

If you ground the netural wire the truck will start. You will not have cruise controll eather. Look around under the dash on the left side of the steering column. The harness should have the plug for the factory pedal switch.

If you don't have the plug. Let me know I can tell you how to throw a relay in to controll the netural circuit to allow cruise controll to function.

I ran into this problem on my G56 swap. I couldn't use the orginal safety switch on the M/C.

 

Philip,

Once again, you're a big help! THANKS!

Only I drive the truck, and I don't have the switch on the clutch cylinder (It fell apart when I was pulling the pedal cluster out, and the previous owner of the donor had the wires cut anway). I think I'm going to just try and ground it out so the truck will start regardless.

 

I have the used switch off my M/C or the new one off the hydro's I used. Just pay shipping and you have eather one.

 

I need this info also. I just grounded the wire.

 

How to use a relay to controll the netural safety circuit!!

On the starter relay. The power feed for the coil section is the yellow wire. The two small brown wires are the ground circuits. One wire goes to the PCM. The other goes to the netural switch on the auto trans or under the dash for the manual setup.

Tap into eather one of the two small brown wires. Do not cut the wire, just tap it. Take that tap to terminal 30 on a 5 pin relay. Run another wire from terminal 87A to a ground.

Find a switched power feed. Make sure the power feed is dead when in the start position, live in run position. Run this power feed to terminal 85. Run a wire from terminal 86 to a ground.

Terminal 87A is a normaly closed circuit when the relay controll circuit does not have power. So that means in the start position the netural circuit is closed. When the relay is powered up in the run position. The relay switches the circuit flow from terminal 87A to terminal 87. Terminal 87A is now open circuit. The PCM wants an open circuit to allow cruise controll function.

BTW I used the windshield wiper power feed for the relay controll power. The wipers are not powered in start position.

Here is a pic of the relay install.




A note of warning now. With the netural circuit rigged with a relay. The only way to drop out of cruise controll is by tapping the brake pedal or turn it off with the switch on the steering wheel. The orginal clutch switch would drop CC when you pushed the clutch in.

 

If I have the plug under the dash do I still have to have the wire grounded?

 

If you have the plug under the dash and the pedal switch. You shouldn't need a relay then.

 

Do I still need the one wire grounded?