Philip

NO

The lead to the auto trans has a spline that sends it into the cab for the clutch switch. The FSM says the plug is there even in the auto trans section. I didn't look for mine. I knew I couldn't use the clutch switch on my setup.

Subliminal

Well, I spent some more time yesterday on my project...on my favorite part: Under the dash.



If you look at the top right of that picture, where the aftermarket wires go through the big rubber grommet and into the cab...well, that's where the clutch cylinder goes. DOH! Of course, one of the wires is for my pyrometer and the instruction manual talks about not cutting those wires, and resistance changing the readings. So, I got a little creative...and this is how it turned out:



Basically, the clutch is mounted to the bracket you can see through that hole...so the firewall isn't really structurally necessary to the operation of the clutch. So, I broke out my drill, my dremel, my tinsnips, my files, my electrical tape and my zipties and I notched the side out, put massive amounts of electrical tape around everything the wires/boost tube would touch, and moved them out of the way. I then bolted up the clutch bracket under the dash and called it a night...

Again, it just cracks me up how the little things in this project can take the longest time. I had all my acc. wires running through that hole. Underneath the dash I ran my aftermarket speaker wires through the bolt holes for that bracket, so those had to be moved, too.

At any rate, I should have the pedals mounted this evening, and after that it's just a matter of mounting the big stuff under the truck...well, I also need to seal the transfer case with the seal kit I bought...

Philip

Don't feel bad about having to move wires. I had used the clutch M/C hole for the same thing.

I just moved everything to the rubber grommet beside the brake booster. Thats where the tail light harness comes out at.

Falcon1

I had to do the same thing on mine. drilled a hole next to it and used tin snips and tape to finish it off.

Subliminal

I would hazard a guess that darn near everyone who does the tranny swap would have the same issue...it's just a great place to run wires.

Subliminal

So, I've been trying to slide the transmission into the clutch for about...oh...an hour.

Good times, good times. I can only imagine this would be easier with 2 people.

Falcon1

It took me a couple of tries also. If you have a good tranny jack it helps. Question on the plug under the dash.

Philip do you know what color the wires are that connect to the plug? I found one and pluged it in. But it still started without the clutch engaged, Do I need to disconnect the grounded wire from the auto neutral safty switch?

steichert

I am pretty new on here and just saw this thread. I swapped my 91 auto to a NV 4500 last summer. I had a hard time getting the tranny to slide all the way in to the clutch also, and it turned out that I had to cut the hole in the floor a little bigger so that the shift tower could go up through it before the tranny was all the way forward. Once I did this it went in fairly easy.Just don't cut it too big or your shifter boot won't cover the hole. My big problem was that I lost prime on the slave cylinder when I took it off of the donor truck, and I spent two days trying to re prime it. It would have been best to just buy a whole new system. And yes it is fun standing on your head to work under the dash. The pedals all went on fine. All of the brackets are already there.

JustRamIt91

you have a system in your truck? i haven't dared go down that road yet... its an expensive one and thats at cost prices... I also noticed that you have a fuel filtration system... what is it? and what do you use it for?

Subliminal

The filtration system is actually the Amsoil Bypass Oil Filtration System the previous owner installed.

As to the stereo, it's a modest system:

10 inch eD sub mounted behind center console
400 watt Fosgate amp powering sub
Alpine CDA-9813 CD deck with ipod input and the most powerful internal amps known to man.
Those amps are powering Viper Audio 6.75 components, the front channels are powering the tweets and the rears the woofers, and I'm using the Alpine's internal crossovers to get the right frequency to the 3 sets of speakers.

I've had so many vehicles now that I just take my system out before i sell them. These components have all been in at least 2 other cars.

Subliminal

Thanks for that...I'm getting ready to go out there right now and try it again...grrr.

JustRamIt91

Yeah i have a few alpine head units...THAT one and a CDA-988A and a iva-w205 i just took out of my lincoln. They are ALL great, by far superrior sound to anything stock, or for the price(mine). They don't usually need an external amp. Unless you go crazy with some expensive speakers.

Anyways hope you make out well today. I just got done working and getting ready to do a few things to the truck.

Subliminal

Yep, thats the best deck I've ever owned...so I kept it.

At any rate, I had a buddy come over and help me slide the tranny into place. Got her all butted up. Felt good...lol. Just took 2 sets of eyes/hands.

Subliminal

So, I took a half day today in hopes of finishing my project.

I:

Installed the pedals
Installed the clutch cylinder
Installed the transfer case
Installed the crossmember

Then I went to install the rear driveshaft.

The front went in nice (although in the pic I think she's a little too tight):


Then I got to the back.



Dang. My donor truck was a cab/chassis truck, but I thought I measured it the same. Guess I was off...about 2 inches. Grrr.

So, work on hold, off to the driveline shop tomorrow (hopefully).

Philip

Thats not an orginal weld on that rear shaft. Its to rough looking. The factory is a machine weld. That weld was done by someone that was pretty shakey.