The idea is to cut the flange off your original downpipe and weld it to a 3''-4'' adapter, then weld the adapter to the new 4'' downpipe

 

Gotcha,that makes sense .Must come real close to the firewall.

 

Thats mine there. It really isnt too bad, its still about as close as the heat shield on the factory DP.

The actual cutting and welding is this:
the flange must be cut off the original DP, and slid into a supplied adapter, then slid into the 3"-4" adapter, then onto the 4" pipe. The factory DP isnt quite 3", its like 2 3/4 OD. So the flange has to slide into the first little piece, and then slid into the 3"-4" adapter welded together, then into the 4" DP. This is what takes so long, just the cutting and measuring and welding of the adapters, and flange.

GGRRR.... I cannot post pics for some reason!
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2904...84615511bDWNDp
follow that link, thats a pic of my DP

 

Seems to be working now.

 

I'll do the whole system at once as the muffler looks like the original and its time to upgrade it.

 

Boatnik- I'd check the intake system for a boost leak. I thought I had EGT issues (I can hit 1400, but only after about 28-30psi boost on the H1C). I had a wastegated intercooler, and got it fixed, and it seems to be holding for now. Guy said he wouldnt warranty the repair, but it got more air to the engine instead of blowing outside.

You can get a 4" plumber's cap and put a valve stem in the center of it. Clamp it to the intake of the turbo and pump it up to about 10-15psi and listen for leaks. May have to get out the Windex or other foamy soapy substance to spray on connections, etc.

Daniel

 

Good advice, but where do you find those wastegated intercoolers? Gotta get me one of those.

 

Hate to say it but, I might have one. Even with the HTT Stage IV compressor upgrade I only see 24 pounds WOT with a load. I replaced one hump hose that was rubbed but never tested the whole system. The grill is so brittle I am afraid to take it off for fear of breaking it. Guess I will need to bite the bullet and check out the system. If the cooler is less than exceptable I will most likely start looking for a bigger replacement. The down pipe issue may be my next problem. I already have 4" pipe behind the bottom elbow. There isn't a lot of room to mess with, and what do I do about the clamp? I don't want pipe strain on the exhaust housing.

 

How "tweaked" is your pump? With the HTT Stage IV/18.5cm and an almost completely turned up pump (there's a little left on the AFC lever) and stock injectors I can hit around 35psi unloaded, so it sounds likely that you have a boost leak.

 

the slights leak will make a big difference, start by just tightening all the clamps and go from there but 24 psi sound low don't you have you pump turned up quite a bit......but then again I'm comparing apples to oranges I'm not intercooled!

I would build the boost pressure tester and see what ya find!

Flash.

 

I second that...24 lbs seems a little low. especially for a truck with 190s and comp wheel upgrade. i have stock injectors and with pump tweaking i can get it to 28 whenever i want. wouldnt exactly help your temps either if you had a road block in your intercooling ability i dont think; but i am not sure about that.

 

My pump is turned to the max without grinding the AFC lever. Bully Dog fuel pin, 3200 spring, afc star wheel bottomed, Smoke screw flush with the nut. Enough smoke to lift off the shuttle. the truck runs good, just low boost and hot pistons. And the timing is way past the mark. aaaaaaclose enough to the head that I have to struggle setting the idle.

 

I hope you meant "a row blocked". Saturday I am "helping" Timinva change my t/c and valve body. After that I guess I'll pull my cooler and wash it inside and out and check for leaks.

 

Boatnik, if you have access to a compressor, this is the best way to find leaks.........somthing tells me that you won't need the spray bottle. you will probably here the leaks! A pressure regulator will make it much easer to control the pressure/volume so you can go look for the leaks instead playing with the air supply the hole time. 5 psi will show the large leaks and 15 psi will show the minor leaks. If it takes more then that, to find a leak.......its not big enough to cause a boost pressure drop!
Just my o2

flash.

 

THanks for the input guys. THat will be a good project for this afternoon.