Hot, hot, hot. Even with the stage 4 htt I have no problem screaming past 1300 egt. Acceleration is respectable, even with a stock torque converter and A518. Sixty mph towing my 25 footer with the parachute for a "T" top I maintained 1100 egt, didn't notice the boost . WOT boost was 25 pounds.
Now here is the weird part. I got the truck good and warm playing around. Never left the normal range on the coolant temp. Trans temp was 260*F. Got caught short at traffic light and I noticed the idle was way low. I mean teeth rattling, almost shut off low. Once everythting cooled a little at the next light it was a little faster. When it cooled to normal every day driving temp. It was back to it's old familiar self. What gives? It didn't do that with the stock injectors and diaphram pump!.

 

Yes idle goes down when temps go up. Mine did that very thing when I pulled off the interstate with my fifth wheel in Needles, CA in the middle of the Mojave one fine June day! I think it has to do with the viscosity of the fuel. Hotter thinner fuel finds it's way around the little crannies in you IP faster than the cool thick fuel. The real problem was that I had my idle set too low anyway. Got my idle up to specs and it's all good now.

 

That sounds like it could be the culprit. I just came in from pulling out the 190's to reshim. I put in the same size that was with the stock injectors to see what my milage will do. the injectors have been in there ffor three, maybe four tank fulls of fuel and were real dirty, and the tips were just starting to turn blue. Guess I had better pay more attention to the egt's. After cleaning the injectors, my idle smoothed out some. (See "Lope at idle")

 

You need a Downpipe! That weenie stock piece is a huge bottle neck for what you have going on!

 

Install a water meth system, Your engine internals will stay carbon free with little usage on the internal steam cleaner!

 

I had my idle way to low. When the engine got good and warm it would idle down to a crawl withthe A/C running and sitting at a stop light. But that bigger down pipe might not be a bad idea. Down the slippery slope some more. I'm just not fiancilly ready for a stage three Snow system yet. Besides, one alcoholic in the family is enough.(hic)

 

haha. i would have to give agree that a downpipe will let you breathe and also allow you to build boost way earlier. my spool up is ridiculously faster even with the 18.5cm turbine housing now that have installed the stans 4 inch. slippery slope? the downpipe is 180 or so and the rest of the four inch exhaust can be bought for around $75 or so....I have noticed a good reduction in egts and i dont even tow. what kind of boost are you running while towing(pulling hills) or wheneve it gets hottest?

 

I dont have a clue what MY EGTS were before the DP, but from what ive been told, most see around a 200 degree drop! Im running 600* cruising at 60, and at 30 when i stick it in 5th n mash it, it climbs SLOWLY to 1000* all the way up to 80 n just hangs there, never exceeds 1000*. My star wheel is bottomed, fuel pin set deep, 2 turns on full fuel, pre-turbo pyro, 2 turns pre-load boost, stock air filter, stock turbo (18.5) I got mine from Rip Rook, it involved a little welding and cutting, But he was a stand up guy! and for 180 with the adapters, and shipped to NY from Washington!

 

Man, if I put mine in 5th at 30 and mashed it, I'd be walking home for sure. If not for the melted piston(s), for sure the complaining Getrag. I dont like to go into 4th at 30.......

 

who has 4" down pipes for our trucks AND what do you need for adapters,bracketts and whatever else you need to install it?

 

www.sourceautomotive.biz

Talk to Rip---he'll square you away on everything you need

 

http://www.sourceautomotive.biz/

Thats Rip Rook, he has a DP, and from what I remember a system as well. If you choose to go with him, for a few more bucks the adapters are supplied, BUT some cutting and welding is required. Not bad AT ALL. I did mine from him.

http://stansheaders.com/

Thats the other, from what I hear, A little more pricey, but no cutting and welding involved in the DP. And they have a system as well.

IMO I would go with Rip again, absolutly a stand up guy and even took the time to mark the adapters and DP for the cutting involved. I think the whole procedure took 3 hours, but that included cutting and disigning a system to turn out in front of the rear pass wheel.

I only did the 30 and 5th gear floor to see just how warm the EGTs are getting, and get a GOOD baseline for more Mods.

 

AND to hear your turbo bark while borrowing my BHAF

 

And picture that as a different finger waving around!!

Well after my poor man open air element, that'll be done tonight, well be having no more of that! (untill the wallet allows the Schwitzer to get here)

 

So without seeing it I would guess the adapter clamps to the turbo and the down pipe clamps to the adapter?? Fabricating / welding must be for the heat shield? I have to do anything I can to cool that engine down.