92smokin blacky

Well I was goin to turn up my idle today cuz its been idling low in the heat. And I was just gonna turn the full power screw up a bit more but it won't even budge so I think I'll just turn up the idle by tightening my throttle linkage cuz i took my low idle screw out a while back and it'd be too much of a pain to get back in.

Anyways I pulled the throttle linkage bracket all off and it looked fairly easy to get to the shut off solenoid since I've been a member of the "pull cable club" for the past year or so and haven't gotten around to fixin it. I got my grinder out and ground off the top part of the pump bracket that is in the way(I've heard of a few guys doin this so i did it). I put a 24mm wrench on the solenoid but it will not budge? its a pain to get in there good cuz I can only get on the nut one way and you can't put the box end on it or a socket on it cuz it won't fit. I'm guessin there is some sort of thread locker or sealant on the threads to seal off diesel? but how do I get this thing out so I can grind the plunger down like in the sticky? I have a BD cooldown timer just sittin here and it'd be nice if i could put it to use.

Onemoparnut

There should not be thread sealer on the threads it seals on an o ring. I was too lazy to grind the bracket so I used a hammer and a punch to break it loose.

92smokin blacky

Alright I wasn't sure. I'll try and hammer and punch and see if it'll break loose, it seems you have to use a hammer and punch a lot more than a wrench on these VE pumps

Onemoparnut

Yea you got that right. At least you dont have to carry all them different tools on a long trip. LOL

92smokin blacky

Well it finally broke loose last night, I tapped on it a few times with a hammer and chisel, then put my wrench back on it and tried tightening it then loosening it and it came loose. I pulled it out and there was a pretty good chunk of rubber missing and it went past the metal part. But I ground it down to the metal then rounded the edges a bit and put it back in hopin it'd still work, put everything back together and started the truck and shut it off with the key! I'll drive it today and build more pressure and hopefully it still shuts down. Now i can install my cooldown timer. Thanks guys!

schamran

I would take the bracket out anyway and grind it. I did mine in the truck, but I wouldn't recommend it because you have to work close to the fuel lines. I suppose if you put an iron between that bracket and the fuel lines you could safely grind it.

Why: so that when it quits working on the side of the road (They loose their magnetism) you can pull it out easily. Or you could just carry a punch and hammer instead of wrenches I guess.

Trebor

Just as information for all of you 5 speed guys out there; the bracket that you guys have been cutting off is drilled to provide the mounting provision for a one piece throttle cable which can/could eliminate the bollixed up Chrysler linkage set up using the 2 ball joints and threaded shaft. The Cummins throttle cable mounting bracket that bolts onto the top of that bracket brace is Cummins part number 3910121 found on other applications. This should also eliminate all of the extra junk Chrysler used to mount the transmission kick down cable. Remember this may only work in 5 speed trucks because it eliminates the kick down cable mount. I haven't installed this yet but I plan on doing this on my crew cab 6BT conversion using a mid 80's GMC 6.2 diesel throttle cable. This also opens up the area for mounting the Cummins dual filter option but that's another story...

92smokin blacky

Yeah thats what i did is put a guard in front of my fuel lines and fuel filter and stuff and ground the top piece off. It all worked better than i thought.