I have reads the articles on bumping the timing of the pump and am wondering how far should i go with the mods that are done to my truck. measuring from the factory slash mark. 1/8 inch? more? less? Any tips that amke the bump easier. Should the truck be running or not? thanks

 

First, I'd get some heavier axles under there.

Second, ALWAYS do timing adjustments with the engine off. The vibrations can (not saying they Will, but they Can) damage the pump or gear housing.

Second, what 1/8" movement of the pump gives you on one truck wont be the same as another truck. On my 92.5, and my 91.0, 1/8" gave me in the neighborhood of 2.0mm. On my mom's, it is right at 1.6/1.7mm. SO, I would recommend getting ahold of a dial indicator, finding your true TDC, and doing it the right way. As you move the pump and get different readings, mark 1.5, 1.7, 1.8 or whatever increments you want- get 2 or 3 marks on the pump and gear housing, lining them up as you move the pump along. Saves you time in the future. Dont like how it runs at 1.6? go to 1.8 and see what that does.

Now, if you are just dead set on bumping it the 1/16, 1/8, whatever, I have used a 1/2" Craftsman crowsfoot socket on a 3" extension for the bolt under the pump, and the same crowsfoot with about 12" of extensions for the bolt up and behind the pump. Loosen the visible nut with a regular wrench, and the one on the bracet at the back of the pump with a 10mm or 13mm (depending on if you have the original bolt in there, or had to put a hardware store replacement in there).

Daniel

 

Like Daniel said. If you don't have a dial indicator, you could do 1/16th increments until it gets loud and metallic sounding at idle, then back it off 1/16 so it has that typical Cummins idle. If your engine is metallic sounding and smells caustic, you have too much timing.

Aloha,
Matt

 

He's running POD's--push the pump to the head and let 'er rip! Then show us some pics of the exploded d44 Seriously, if you're not towing or hauling and use at least a little bit of prudence with the loud pedal, those axles will likely live for a while, especially behind an automatic. The 241 will probably barf a chain before an axle breaks.

 

What ever decides to break, we want pics.

Just to be simple, run an 1/8".
dpuckett is right, the actual plunger lift will vary from engine to engine, but 2.0mm will run POD's well, mine was set at 2.03mm with POD's and it ran really well, close to 370hp and enough torque to spit the weak parts right out of your driveline.

 

Ill get pics for all of you (and me) to be entertained by. I dont think they will last much longer. I always wondered why dodge never built a standard cab short bed. The wieght of the motor makes me have zero traction to the rear wheels. Pics will come when i blow my t-case, axles etc apart at the first pull of the year. Maybe sooner depending on the skinny peddle.

 

Get a video of that 1st pull!

 

POD's = push the pump to the head.