So I've finally completed some pump adjustments. Took the collar off the full fuel screw, marked down the threads as a stock reference, slid 'er back into place and gave it an additional 2 and one half turns (I still have room for about 4-5 full turns before threads run out). Literally like night and day. The only regret I have is not doing it earlier. I jumped from 18 psi to 24 psi and I can actually pass people now. I also jumped from 800F WOT to 1000F

I also gave 3 turns on the smoke screw just for good luck. I've got a good puff of smoke only if I really hammer on it before she spools (and whistles). I can make the turbo bark too but can be controlled. I have yet to turn the star wheel or fuel pin.

Also, my idle was much too high and needed to be adjusted. After reading the tips in the tech articles I thought I was in for a long night just to adjust my low idle. Actually quite the opposite. After cracking the lock nut loose with a hammer and flat head screw driver, I was able to manually open my throttle with my right hand and adjust the idle screw with my left hand index finger and thumb from the radiator side with no problems at all. No-lube necessary.

On to my questions. How are people measuring their timing bump, either say 1/16 or 1/8"? Are they just using the index marking on the pump and gear housing? And if so, do you measure the smallest arc length between the two lines? Is this something everyone should be doing? I understand how the system works, but what advantage does it give? Does it effect fuel economy?

I also have my fuel pin coming in about a week. Is this going to put me over the edge? I am quite comfortable the way the truck drives just with the mods I made, but will I have to back off when I install the pin?

Sorry for the thousand questions.

 

this will help!!!!

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...50&postcount=5

I only bump my timing half of what the pic shows and made a big diff. try it, if yo don't like it, you can alway put it back were it was



flash.

 

I like moving the gear One tooth my self. Letter C dose wonders.

 

Easiest way to measure is with a piece of welding rod, but you can use a steel rule.

The only guys who shouldn't do the 1/8" bump are the guys with 21 cm turbine housings - with a little extra timing those things are even laggier.

 

Is that possible??? He he!! Yea it sucks...cannot wait to get rid of the "lagmaster". Only thing stopping me is $$$.

 

Is there a "how to" on jumping a tooth on the pump gear? I'd like to do that when I do the KDP while the cover is off. My IP is nearly bottomed out on the slots and it isn't even advanced yet.
thanks

 

Never mind. I got mine advanced an 1/8". I absolutely couldn't stand the way it felt. It was like it was straining to get moving and pulling was a nightmare....well....until I got to about 75mph then it smoothed out some but I do most of my driving well below 2200rpm. It did reduce my EGT by about 100* though. But I couldn't put it back to stock fast enough. I guess it's not for everyone.