Should I be able to get the hidden mounting bolt with a set of metric S wrenches from HF? The IP pours fuel when running. The leak must be from the engine side. I have tried to find it with a mirror without luck so I'll reseal the whole pump and hope for the best.

 

Yes. Those should work fine. You need a steering wheel puller for the gear. You have to remove the oil filler tube from the front of the gar housing to get at the nut. Then screw 2 bolts into the gear from the puller to pop the gear loose from the Pump shaft.

Here is part one of three on how to remove and replace the VE.


Edwin

 

Check the control valve and see if it is leaking, it will appear down the backside (engine side) of the pump,
This is an easy repair.

 

Thanks for the advice. I did order the special puller for the gear. I couldn't order the actual wrench for it since I needed the parts and tools on Monday to do the job. That plan is now toast since we are supposed to have stormy weather all next week. Gotta pick up a battery this morning and try to track down the leak. Thanks Jim. I have to run by HF to pick up a set of crowfoot wrenches and S wrenches. I have put off this job all winter since I mostly drive the TDI now, but I want to keep The Brute running right.

 

mine did that a few years ago it ended up being the plate on the engine side straight across from the ksb its 2 torques head screws and its just an o ring

 

Thanks Brian. I'm gonna change all the exterior seals and see what happens. Sometimes it will leak constantly and other times only for a minute or two and then stop. there appears to be a slight leak around the top cover drivers side and I'm thinking it is pouring from the engine side. I'll find out Monday, if the rain holds off.

 

if you change the seal on the shaft that goes thru the gear do the blue loctite thing and make sure to keep it even when driving it in......

 

I have everything loose for pump removal. Just waiting on the gear puller for the IP gear to arrive tomorrow. I really screwed up and crimped the fuel supply line at the IP. Is Cummins 3918641 the correct line for my '89? Hoping the same one fits all 1st gens. Is there a good how to thread for resealing the IP? All the ones I found in the sticky, the pics don't load. Whats the best way to keep the key from falling into the timing cover when seperating the gear and IP. I read to place a towel into the cover which I did for removing the nut and washer, but that is only between the timing cover and gear correct?

 

I did the same thing when I pulled my pump last year. Get the line from your local Cummins dealer. They'll give you the updated line. You'll need the Serial Number off the engine which is on the gear cover next to the Injection Pump. Next time hold the fitting with a wrench while loosening the line. BTDT

To keep the woodruff key from falling out you need to make sure it fits tight in the slot in the shaft. You can stake the shaft next to slot to make it tight.

 

I use a "C" shape manifold wrench to remove the nuts on the injection pump.

Borrow 2 of the bolts from the grid heater to use on your bar style steering wheel puller to mount it to the pump gear.

You might have to smack the end of the pump shaft to break the tapered fit, leave the nut on and punch it using a brass drift punch.

I turned the engine till the woodruff key is at 12:00 position and stuff a rag between the timing gear and gear case to prevent the key from falling into the case.

 

Jim Lane or anyone who can help, when I pulled the top cover I thought I heard a metalic click inside (like a spring loaded thingy going to home position). I didn't see a problem so I replaced the gasket and installed the top cover. I think I have rotated the engine plenty for fuel to reach the injectors but nothing is happening. Did I do something wrong with the governer cover? I am sure that the key engaged in the drive gear. Looks like I should be able to pull the cover on the engine. Thanks all.

 

Did you lose the gov spring while pulling the cover?...That might have been the noise.

 

I unhooked the spring after the cover was off and reconnected afterwards. Thanks anyway. The noise was right when I raised the cover slightly for removal.

 

Quick update. I'm getting diesel and air bubbles from all injector lines no matter how long I bleed them (average cranking around 12 seconds). I've bled all lines at least 4 times. I rebled the pump (1st at the filter, then at the input to the pump and then the pump return line). I then bled the injector lines again. Still getting diesel bubbles. Shutting down for the night.