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Tell tale sign of ???

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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 06:08 AM
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From: Central KY
Tell tale sign of ???

The other day I went to start the truck and for the first time it didn't fire right off. I thought it was just my imagination, you know, took an extra millisecond or something. A few starts later it did it again.

Yesterday it turned over several times before it would start. Once it starts it runs normal. Haven't checked the FSS wires yet to make sure they are tight. Is this an indicator or something?

On a similar note (maybe), for the past several hundred miles the fuel pressure has been between 10-13 when it normally is between 6-9lbs. Could this be related? The pressure gauge is tapped in above the fuel filter.

Ideas?
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 07:59 AM
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From: vermont
Is it reading pre or post fuel filter reading for PSI?
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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My best guess on a slow start (more than 2 pistons over the top before fire) would be:
1. Small leak in the fuel line between the pump and tank.
2. FSS beginning to fail, either electrical or mechanical.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 08:28 AM
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How old is the fuel filter?
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 10:33 AM
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My thoughts too....fuel filter needs to be changed, and/or a small leak in the fuel system allowing the fuel to drain back slightly. A weeping injector can cause the fuel to drain back as well.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 12:05 PM
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The filter was replaced when I replaced the head gasket last year but less than a couple thousand miles. I change it when I change the oil. The fuel heat section has leaked ever so slightly since I put it back on the head, just never got around to fixing that. maybe that is leaking more now and causing it?

The fuel pressure sender is tapped in just above the fuel filter base on the head. Not sure but I'm assuming that's after the filter?

I'll change the filter and fix that little leak and see what happens.

Thanks guys,
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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From: Isanti, MN
The banjo bolt with the bleed screw, often replaced with a pipe threaded one for a pressure gauge, is after the filter.
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 06:07 PM
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Finally found time to swap out my fuel filter and tighten the heating unit. Leak has stopped but it still starts funny.

I'm thinking it electrical now. When it doesn't start on the first turn it always starts immediately on the 2nd. Even if I crank for several seconds on the first attempt it won't start. Doesn't always happen though. Sometimes she fires right up like a Cummins is supposed to.

I replaced the key switch earlier for a different reason and sometimes the radio & wipers don't work unless I turn the key counter clockwise a smidge. I'm thinking the FSS is not being activated?

It's so embarrassing to sound like a powerstroke when trying to start sometimes...
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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 06:13 PM
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From: Isanti, MN
Originally Posted by KRB
Finally found time to swap out my fuel filter and tighten the heating unit. Leak has stopped but it still starts funny.

I'm thinking it electrical now. When it doesn't start on the first turn it always starts immediately on the 2nd. Even if I crank for several seconds on the first attempt it won't start. Doesn't always happen though. Sometimes she fires right up like a Cummins is supposed to.

I replaced the key switch earlier for a different reason and sometimes the radio & wipers don't work unless I turn the key counter clockwise a smidge. I'm thinking the FSS is not being activated?

It's so embarrassing to sound like a powerstroke when trying to start sometimes...
Yep. If it has to pull more than 2 cans over the top, it's sick.

You have checked the cleanliness and tightness of the FSS connector of course. You could rig a light to it and see if it is lit when the engine won't start. That would at least separate electrical from fuel issues.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:22 AM
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Ha! I was just thinking the same thing. Hook up a light to it to see. May do that over the holidays.

Fuel pressure is back down to normal though.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:15 AM
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Where did you get your key switch? The one I got from Napa I had to shim before it would work right.
Check your grid heaters.
Make sure you don't have a leak between the pump and the tank. Had that happen on my 91 after I changed the lift pump. The result was hard starts.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 12:27 PM
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Yea NAPA. I don't remember anything about shimming it though? Enlighten me.

The grids cycle on and off, is that what you mean?

Anybody know on the FSS, can I wire in a light in between each lead? I guess what I'm asking is, is one wire 12v and the other a ground? I can't recall.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KRB
Yea NAPA. I don't remember anything about shimming it though? Enlighten me.

The grids cycle on and off, is that what you mean?

Anybody know on the FSS, can I wire in a light in between each lead? I guess what I'm asking is, is one wire 12v and the other a ground? I can't recall.
Nothing in the instruction, just poorly made. I had to grind down some thin washers to place on the screws between the switch and column to keep the switch from binding when tightening down the screws. Without doing so, the switch would not work right.

The other wire on the FSS is a jumper to the KSB solenoid. The FSS is grounded through the solenoid body. What I did was replace the slip connectors with ring lugs. That way I was sure it would stay tight.
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 03:08 PM
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From: Central KY
So it was only -15F* this morning and with 12" of snow I decided it was good weather to work on the truck...

I checked the battery and it read 12.1. Isn't a battery supposed to read 14.3 or something? Or is that when only it's running? Its only 13 months old.

So then I checked the FSS but I guess my multi meter was froze up (the barn ain't heated) because it measured -1v. But with the key on it lit a test light. So I turned her over (not plugged in) and she was slow.

I'm thinking my battery is dragging and not spinning fast enough to lite her up? Obviously the problem today but I don't recall the weather when it would happen before.

Thoughts?
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 05:02 PM
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should be 12.6V for 100% charge; 12.4V for 75% charge; 12.2V for 50% charge; and 12.0V for 25% charge. 11.7V is 0%.
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