I have been fighting this for two weeks now.
All started with changing the fuel filter. It always started on the 1st bump on the starter before.
The bottom of the new filter had a drip. I tightened the new filter with the wrench and that didn't work So I tried to remove the fuel heater by removing the stud using the 2 nuts jambed togeather method using 5/8 by 16 threads.
Now I wonder if those are metric threads, because when I tried to run the 1st nut up on the stud, it got hard to turn. No it was not cross threaded. Any how the stud went on further into the head crushing the pot metal vanes ruining the fuel heater. I don't care about the heater part anyway. So I went to the Cummins store and got the short stud, Cost $23 with overnite shipping.

Put it all togeather and I felt good that this is going to fix it. I fill the filter with atf, bled all the injectors and bam!! It kicked right off ran good, turned it off and started right off several times.
Left it sit for an hour and tried it. Wouldn't start, bled the injectors again and it started right off.
several times I would try starting it by turning over for 10 seconds and let it sit for 10 seconds and it will kick right off!
So now we know it is sucking air some where, but where.
I pressured up the tank and could find any leaks.
Is it possible that it might be sucking air through the seals on the inj pump?

Oh yes I did install a new lift pump a while back an am getting 10 psi at the bleed screw above the filter. Should this maintain the pressure after shutdown? Or should it bleed off?
These cuummins sure do feel good when they kick off on the 1st bump on the starter! But I am afraid to trust it when it aint right!
I apoligize for the long post as there could be several subject heading on this one.
Thanks for any input, Tom

 

Has it ever flat out died on ya on the road or is it just a no start situation?

 

do you have a boost gauge?

 

It hasn't died on the road yet. But it would idle rough in gear with foot on brake.

Started it this morning, cranked it three different times before it started.

I think I will replace the copper crush washers and set up to pump from a can.
That should isolate the problem to the front part of the fuel system.

I need to get it going soon. Junk cars are bringing $160 a ton.

Thanks , tom

 

have someone blow into the tank to lightly pressurize it, like 2-4 breaths until they feel resistance, i use correct sized radiator hose, you will see the fuel leaking return line area, even above the tank is possible.

 

Well it died on me 20 miles from home. Tried to start it for an hour until battery went down.
What I don't get is why when I bleed the injectors and all are squirting like crazy, why it won't fire off.

I pumped the hand lever on the lift pump until there is no resistance on the level,
bleed the inj and it won't fire. Another question; I would think that the hand pump would have more resistance as it builds up pressure, but this one has resistance for a ways and then it feels like no resistance at all. Is that normal?
My Mercedes hand pump stays with a resistance forever.

This is a new lift pump. Could it be bad? It always shows 10 psi at the filter bleed screw.

I am going trailer it home in the morning.
Junk cars went to 180 a ton today! What is china doing with all our iron!

Thanks Tom

 

Check the shutdown solenoid connection.

 

I did check it with a test light on the fss stud.

I had these problems last week with the plunger removed. I put back in when I thought it was fixed.

I still would like to know it the manual lever on the lift pump should go limp after pumping for a while while priming?

I have had diesels before and when you get the injectors bled, they would fire right up.

The plunger was in perfect like new condition.


Thanks, Tom

 

Me again! I got it home and need to plan the next step on find a air leak.

Would it work if I was to remove the fuel line from the line that comes from the tank. This line connects to the lift pump. I am thinking about putting 10 psi air through the lift pump and us soap from a spray bottle to find any air leaks.
Would this damage the lift pump?

Also I asked previously if it is normal for the manual lever on the lift pump to become relaxed after priming the system?

Thanks again, Tom

 

Ok, I just went out to my new truck (still has the factory lift pump) and tried to hand prime it. Mine did just as yours is, would pressure up then would be come real easy to push down. So sounds like that may be normal?
So to sum it all up; you have applied pressure to the tank and looked for leaks and have found none?
You always have power at the fss with the key on/run?
It will always start up after a fuel system bleed and will start good until it sits for awhile?
With it running is runs good. but do you have any somke out of the tial pipe? try to give it a little throtle and see if it smokes grey.
And final question is this all started after the filter change?