OK I've tried to do a search, but can only find stuff from the 4x4 guys(I'm gealous)sp

I have nasty play in my steering, I went underneath as my Daughter "drove" the steering wheel back and forth. To my dismass there was ALOT of play under there. I did not notice any play at the tie rod ends (mostly idler arm and canter link).

I want to know what I should replace to get the steering up to par, I dont have a large bank account but safety is improtant to me.

Any help would be apprieciated.
Thanks in advance,
Michael

PS I need to do this before the weekend

 

What worked for me was to just replace the coupler down by the steering box.
First time I had it done, my local garage changed both the housing and the shoes, but I found it didn't fix all the play. I thought therefore what was still present must then be coming from the steering box, so I booked it back in for them to replace the box. However, when they looked closer, they saw the play was still in the coupler, so they asked the local Dodge dealer what was happening. Turns out the parts guy gave them a larger housing from another model. So the shoes were sloppy. This time they got the right housing to match the shoes, and now everything is tight. Well at the most 1/2" play in the steering wheel. I think tht's pretty good. Make sure you get a matching set if you do the work.

John

 

Yea that coupler is a big problem, My fix for this is to get a ujoint kit the fits the steering shaft and the yokes and the ujoint is greaseable. The stock coupler will be bad again in about 2 years maybe three. I will take a pic of this an post it if u would like to see what it looks like. Tboling

 

I dont have play near the box...

I just got back from 3 part stores- NOBODY has the stuff in stock

I got quotes from $303-$614 for just parts
I know I need:
(1)Center Link
(1)Idler Arm
(2)Inner Tie Rod Ends
(2)Outer Tie Rod Ends
(2)Tie Rod Couplers

Is there anything els I need? What kind of greese, any recomendations on where to get parts?

Thanks,
Michael

 

Use molybdenum disulphide grease, available at your local Wal-Mart, TSC, Southern States, etc. It resists wash-out and has better lubricity than pretty much any other formula. There are some very few EP applications that it is not suitable for, but for suspension and steering it is the best. (Ford specs it for all of their ball-joints, but don't let that put you off )

$300 seems a little steep to me, but I haven't had to do a Dodge 2wd before.

Good luck, it is worth it to be safe, but also it'll pay for itself in tires.

 

I don't know if this applies to 2WD's, but check that the steering box mounting bracket and the frame around the front bracket-to-frame mounting bolt aren't cracked. Mine had a lot of play in the steering until I replaced a bracket cracked into 2 pieces, and welded a crack in the frame. The steering feels new now. Hope this helps.
- Chris

 

Michael, I thought you said the tie rods were tight? Why replace them if they are not bad? It looks to me like you should be able to get the idler arm and center link for around $150 before tax (Advance Auto Parts prices). They are not too hard to swap, and your alignment won't get messed up.

The only time I've ever heard of anybody replacing the tie rod couplers is when they get bent in a wreck or a curb hit.

 

Thanks for the reassurance Dave. I'm going to get the centerlink and idler arm tomorrow, and wait on the tie rods. Any thought on the balljoints? They don't move but don't hold greese well.

Thanks again,
Michael

 

How are you checking the ball joints? You have to jack the truck by the control arm to unload the lower, then try to muscle the wheel around. I lay under the vehicle with a prybar so I can get some leverage while I look for movement.

 

I've jacked up by lower A arm and tried to move the wheel in and out on the top and bottom. I had no movement at all that I could find.
I picked up the parts to do this job Thursday.. wish me luck.

Michael