92-96 F350's have a factory panhard bar i think. My buddy's 96 powerstroke F350 did, it came factory with a D60 like our trucks

 

Since I've been driving the truck about the last few months, that "sensitivity" which existed before is not noticeable. Just feels like a modern truck steering.....



Except for the OE turning radius..... but I guess it's just something you live with.

 

1992-1997 F-350 trucks use the Dana 60 Open Knuckle Mono-Beam Front Axle with BALL JOINTS, and high pinion driver drop diff. Yeah.... JUST like our trucks.

Whatever usually I'll let the anecdotal internet misinformation fly but not on T-Man's thread!

Why are we still discussing stop gap fixes to crossover steering on the rev rotation steering sticky thread?

 

Have you tried adjusting the stop bolts on the axle for better radius?

 

Did you figure out how to get your steering wheel straight? Do you do this at the shaft to the steering gear or is there another way?

 

Remove the screws that hold the horn button in place on the backside of the steering wheel. Remove the nut that holds the steering wheel in place. Use a steering wheel puller (either rent one or buy one for the $10 it will cost you) and remove the steering wheel. Put the steering wheel back on without using the nut, and pull out of your driveway. Go slow down a straight flat as possible road. Once you have the truck going straight, come to a stop. Lift the steering wheel off of the shaft and re-install the steering wheel by eyeballing how even it sits in front of you. Temporarily put the nut back on and make sure it remains straight while driving slow. Tighten the nut and replace the horn button.

you're done. No more than 5 minutes worth of work.

 

UPDATE:

I should have spent the extra $$ on this from the start. Today I put a PS cooler in my dodge, as during the last snow storm, my ps pump (which is going bad again) was overheating from being in the same lot for almost 2 hours moving slush around. This is the second pump from Napa, and the last. I'm going with a professional rebuilder (hopefully Chip from Powersteering.com) and have a new pump made up for me. Tired of wasting time and money on these resealed Pieces of crapola. Anyway, spend the extra money and get the quality parts and don't skimp on junk from these chain stores.

Here's the kit from Derale:
It's actually a transmission / Power steering cooler that they recommended for heavy duty diesels that are used for plowing snow. The only negative part of the kit is the mounting zip ties. They suck. They broke almost immediately, and another way of fastening needs to be done in the future. There's still 2 of them holding on, but they won't last forever.

 

this is a great write-up, I figured when my box goes sloppy, there cant be more adjustment and id do this upgrade, im ticking 400k and all is well with the oem, but im finishing the '89 d60 for my '74 ramcharger with the similar gear, my projection will be 5" lift at the springs, and im wondering if there are longer pitman arms used for the lifted trucks, ive used the spacers on top of the axle knuckle, but like the pitman setup better on my '90, a longer arm on the older box would increase ratio in turning even more.

 

Don't know where you can buy a longer arm for the RR setup.

I do know you can buy a longer arm for the steering knuckle which would help you in gaining your height needed.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes-St...FTNp7AodLUsAmA

They also make blocks for the D60 which would additionally raise the height of the raised knuckle arm.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sj...FXPNOgod31wAqA

 

Is it even possible to use the rr setup with 10" of lift?

 

I would beef up the frame and go cross over. I think that is the only way to get a "acceptable" angle on the draglink with that much lift.


Otherwise you will have bump steer pretty bad.

 

Thank you, I've built some trucks with up to 3" of lift, but I want to put my crew on big meats and 10" of lift and need some help and thoughts. The cross over is new to me.

 

The first picture at the top of this page is a really good shot of a nicely done cross over.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...301721p10.html


notice how the tie rod and drag link are as parallel as possible. that is exactly what you want.

 

Thank you, is there any benefit from having the drag link behind the front axle up high? I have seen that done before and was curious?

 

It is actually in front of the axle. there are several advantages. For one it eliminates the crack prone obsolete stock steering box adapter that dodge used on our W250/350s I also moves the pivot points {Tie rod ends} farther apart making for better geometry and reducing bump steer. And for guys that have big lifts it puts steering arms higher reducing drag link angles to doable.