NJTman

I had the opportunity to actually "drive" the truck for a while today. All I can say is .....


What a dramatic improvement.


Turning into off ramps, driveways, parking lots, is so much easier. My actual radius hasn't changed at all, but the effort to get the truck to go where I want it to go is completely different.

It's such a weird feeling to turn in my dodge truck with immediate results, similar to my other vehicles I own. It's truly refreshing, and makes me feel as if I'm in a different vehicle.

It took about an hour for the "burps" to end, as it's a long process to get all the air out. I pulled into my post office, and stopped to let another driver out. When I went to turn the steering wheel, it felt as though I was up against a curb, and then it immediately released. ... This "burp" , from what I'm told by Bobva will take a little time to go away, as the bubbles leave the system. It didn't do it again, after about an hour or so of driving, although that would have been sooner, if I had just hit the highway.

One thing I have to get used to is the "reverberation" or the response to stuff in the road. My Yota steering wheel moves when I hit a pothole or entrance ramp to a store or driveway. The dodge never did that , but now, because everything is so tight, it does it. Not a bad feeling, just bizarre, as I haven't grown accustomed to it as of yet.

Thanks again guys for sharing this upgrade, as I'm completely satisfied with the results.

NJTman

Since I can't edit my post any longer, I just thought I'd post the final hose configuration for pressure line.

This is what the hose should look like to fit as intended.

enafzige

This is exactly what I was wondering. The upgrade you did looks perfect for 2wd or 4wd stock height trucks.

Based upon what you said above, I presume crossover steering is still the ticket for lifted 4wds. I don't think there'd be an easy way to use a reverse rotation box in conjuction with crossover steering?

What you did looks great!!!! Good job.

--Eric

james1

Great write up. Thanks much. I have assembled all the parts to make this modification and hope to do it soon.

A couple of questions:

I now have a used reverse rotation steering box that I will be sending off for a rebuild. How is this one you purchased from PSS different from the OEM box (or different from an off-the-shelf rebuild from NAPA)?



NAPA shows a straight draglink for the 1972 to 1974 W200 (4500# axle) and a bent draglink for the 1975 to 1977 Dodge. How did you know which to use?

Again, thank you.

NJTman

The one purchased from chip has a "variable ratio" which I chose. You don't get to choose what you want from napa, as most likely it's 24 to 1 which is exactly stock. The only way you can choose is to pick a different saginaw gear from some other truck and use it.

I chose (per Chips recommendation of 30 years of doing gears) to have the internal stops removed from the gear. This allows you to not worry about how the gear limits your turing, but to strictly rely on the ones on the differential. You don't get this option from a standard rebuilder... or much or anything else at all.

Quality of the rebuild..... you get what you pay for. for $350... plus shipping, hands down the best value, as you actually get to pick what you want to do with your gear

According to both Papecat and BobVA it doesn't make any difference, as both fit and both work. the "bent" version gives you a little more ability to turn (I believe) left, as the bend allows more travel without binding. The reality is, your differential stops (the screws on the knuckles) actually dictate what you can turn or not. Bob and Papecat have the bent draglink, and I have the straight. Both do the same job, and because I haven't touched my stops, I guess I have something to adjust sometime soon.



I'm going to say it again.... Drove the truck today, and it's a dream compared to what it was. The feedback into the wheel that you get from having no play in the system is strange, but I'm already getting used to it.

BobVA said..... "watch your speed".

At first, I didn't get what he meant, but now I understand. The confidence level increases with the improved performance, and I really do find myself driving much faster than before. It's something that I wasn't aware of previously, but it's happening. The truck steers so good, that I tend to accelerate, and find a higher "normal" of driving speed.

I have to re-learn my accelerator pedal...



Thanks Bob

NJTman

Thanks Eric,

You have to think about one major thing here.....

Crossover steering was not available in any dodge truck at this time. It is NOT DOT APPROVED, as BobVA has said. If you get into a wreck, and something makes the inspectors look at your vehicle, and they find "off road" parts on the truck you drive "on road" you might just find yourself in a heap of trouble.


I don't think you can use this system with lifted trucks, unless you get a enlongated pitman arm, a custom draglink, or a raised knucle link where the draglink bolts to it. Don't even know if they're avail or not.

bobva

You can put this on a lifted truck http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SJ...cation/?page=2

This block is for a 44 but its also available for a 60 http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...con/70300.html

enafzige

No, crossover steering wasn't available back then. However, it is a much better design. That is undisputed, and is verified in the design showing up on all newer vehicles.

I'm not sure where the "NOT DOT APPROVED" thought is coming from. Do you anything in writing that explains DOT approved mods to vehicles? From my experience (which is limited), there is much concern (in some states) with putting previous model year components on a newer vehicle. I've not seen hesitation concerning putting newer model components on an older vehicle.

The adjustable drag link is used to help re-center the steering wheel on a lifted application. I've used the steering blocks, but they don't improve the design of the steering. They mostly are used to maintain proper range of motion of the TREs without binding.

The poor design of the stock steering is only exaggerated in a lifted vehicle. It is GREATLY exaggerated in a vehicle with long travel. Look at the stock steering, or with the older style steering you've employed. Imagine the front driver's wheel dropping 12" vertical, and it's not hard to see how that has a very undesirable effect on steering. The crossover design and its variations (t-steering, y-steering, etc) are employed to mitigate the undesired effects.

--Eric

Crossy's son

I just bought the 2.5" tall block off ebay for the Dana 60, Believe it was $60. It's what's recomended when you get a 4" lift. Which is what is on the way

MARF75

I HIGHLY recommend atleast a tack weld on that block to the knuckle!
I used one on a Ford D60 and it would move around.

Crossy's son

Alright i'll keep that in mind. I was pretty sure it was held down pretty good by the 4 studs though.

ataac_flat04

Does anyone know if a W100 pitman arm is the same as a W200? What about the steering arm that bolts to the axle and turns the knuckle, do we use later style arm (what's on there now) or do we need that 70's vintage arm in that position as well? -Chuck

bobva

I dont believe there a difference in the RC W100 W200 W300 pitman arm size wise.

Only thing that has come up different sizes is the input shaft on the steering gear.
one being 3/4 X 30
other one being 13/16 X 36

You asking about the draglink you'll need one from the 72-77 truck
MOOG DS879 4500lbs axle

Crossy's son

NJTman, Great job on the write up and sorry about the thread de-rail. This definetly deserves a spot in the sticky!

NJTman

yeah, if you can delete all the crapola