The stearing gear box is leaking at a steady rate. It doesnt matter wether you drive it all day or not, the next day you have to add 1/3 QT to it. The power stearing pump is fine and not leaking, but the gearbox is in a couple places.

Thanks for any help.

 

I once put a rebuilt box on my truck because the original was worn and had too much play.

The rebuilt unit lasted about 16 months before all the play came back.

The second time I put on a new one from the dealer, it was more expensive
but at least it's lasting now.

Another maintenance tip I would recommend is to get one of those vacuum type oil extractors
and get into the habit of extracting the power steering pump resevoir oil and refilling with
new steering fluid along with doing the engine oil change.

 

CHEAP TRICK as wat i see you paid 500$ so i dont think you want to put to much $ in it try emptying the oil and put 15w40 instead steering will be a little harder but youll only fill it once a full moon it worked on mine oil is thicker so less leak i used to fill mine once a week now once every 3 months

 

If the box is already shot, you could try some sort of stop leak additive. I personally don't like em in something that's not totally fried only to hold something over until the funds arrive. Just my two cents worth. Or maybe it's only half a cent it's really late now for me.

 

Were is it leaking?????.....if it is leaking at the stub shaft seal or the pinion shaft you can get a seal kit from DC for it.
I did my stub shaft seal repair when I put the Borgeson shaft on about 2 years back and it's still dry and tight.

pb.....

 

I dont know how you are as a mechanic. but when mine started leaking out the shaft seals and had a lot of play. I bought a rebuild kit and completely rebuilt it. the kit has everything in it to rebuild the piston packing, o-rings, and the shaft seals. If you watch what your doing when taking it apart, it goes pretty easy. but you will need a ring compressor to get the packing int the box without tearing it. the plus side to rebuilding the one that you have is it only costs about 35.00 bucks. and you know that the whole box has been rebuilt.

 

From what i could see watching it while i had someone turn the wheel back and forth its about 2 drips a second coming out of the input shaft. I may try and find an auto parts store open today and get that seal. There isnt all that much slack in the stearing, so I may try reseal first.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Ok, if it's dripping/leaking from the "input" shaft that is called the stub shaft. DC has the repair kit I mentioned and you can do it yourself without too much difficulty.
You'll need a drift pin, ballpeen hammer, drill, 1/8" drill bit a couple of drywall screws or good wood screws, a small jimmy bar, vise grips and, a flat blade screwdriver.

That will get you thru the job in decent time. The drill and screws are for removing the old seal with is in there pretty tight.

pb....

 

I did that little "add some 15w40 to it" trick and it worked.

It was really low as usual yesterday, so i put in about half a qt of 15w40 and it hasnt leaked a noticible amount yet.


BUT, i did notice the oil cooler has a pin hole leak and is slowly leaking coolant. It looks to be leaking on one of the rusted metal lines. I'll just replace it with regular tubing.

I swear all these little jobs would cost alot if i didnt have a garage full from my other projects.