Working on the rear axle of my 91 2wd d350. I'm trying to rework my rear brakes and I can't the get the axles to budge. I tried PB blaster soak. I also tried alternately heating and applying PB blaster but no luck. They're glued on with pb blaster I suppose by the same jack leg that jb welded the exhausted manifold studs on 2 separate attempts with equally pathetic results. Supposedly the rear axle was "rebuilt" before I bought the truck. Should I try an air chisel?

 

You've removed the bolts, and it still won't come loose? I'd try and whack it with a 2lb sledge and see what happens.

 

Usually I'd hit it straight on with a 3 pounder. I wouldn't use the air chisel but since it's got floating axles, you might try lightly driving the axle cap sideways, or 90* to the axle. Make sure you hit in the meaty part, between the bolt holes so you don't deform them. You can only drive it a little ways, maybe 1/16 of an inch but all you're trying to do is break it loose.

 

Do you have bolts or studs & nuts?

The studs and nuts can be a real PITA because the copper cone washers are mashed right in there. Sorry I don't have any tips, but maybe some insight as to what you're dealing with?

 

I whacked mine from the side with a 3 lb. sledge. Broke both sides loose with a couple hits.

 

Just did mine yesterday, with a regular hammer, tap on the edge of the axle flange at the stud. You don't have to hit hard and put your hand in front of the stud, because I have had mine shoot out into the yard...Mark

 

It has studs and nuts. I don't see any washers on there. I tried whacking it with a 2lb sledge and it only deforms the axle end. Not sure what to now. I thinking about taking out into the parking lot with the nuts loose to try and work it loose.

 

The split washers are what is holding it, try smacking right along the studs, works every time...Mark

 

Do it like a big rig. Hit directly on the center of the axle. Right in the middle of the circle. Hit straight in. If you keep hitting the side you will mess up the seal area and knock things out of a machined flat surface. The shock direct on will loosen the axle. On my 44,000 pound axles sometimes they take a big boy splitting maul to shake things loose.

 

Sorry, but not true, I just did it yesterday, TAPPING on the side, works every time, did it yesterday and every time, no damage....tapping....

 

Air hammer. Carefully. Straight in on the shaft with it and the vibration should walk the washers out enough you can remove them and the axle should come right out then.

 

I am sure that works. I find that the first 1 or 2 require a firm tap, but as they go it becomes easier. Here is what my hub looks like, note the silicone and no damage...Mark

 

Sometimes " tapping " won't do it and sometimes it will. I have seen people hit them and bend like " Totally Rad " said in a higher post. It does not take much to frig the holes or the axle machined surface.

 

Agreed, it is just my experience, I am not trying to be argumentative. It is certainly worth a try, because tapping with a ball peen hammer is less invasive than a 3 lb maul, and work your way to the maul IMO...Mark

 

Can you get the studs out? Mine uses bolts.