If you are not a good shot with a hammer, cut some short pieces of rubber hose, then shock it with the sledge hammer.Them boggers will come loose.

 

It's not the studs holding it on, it's the conical split washers, they are a tight fit...Mark

 

I bought a special pair of pliers that has a V on one side. Opens the cone washer and they will come off the stud. If you have old pair of pliers you don't want you can try grinding one side to make it a cone washer removal tool. This is the tool I use to pull the tapered cones off axle studs works great.

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDgQ8wIwAg#

 

The later 32 spline axles use bolts. The early axles are 35 spline and have studs, nuts and the tapered cone.

 

You aren't going to get them loose by tapping them with a small hammer, you need to smack them like you own them by using a sledge.

Smack then directly in the center of the hub, leave several nuts on the end of the studs to keep the axle from popping out.

I have pulled many Rockwell axles out of semi tractors and transit coaches with my 10# sledge hammer.

By hitting them on the side of the flange you take the chance of deforming it and ruining the sealing surface.

You need to slam them with a sledge and the shock will pop the cones loose, once loose if the cone wont move then wedge a small screwdriver into the split and it will loosen up on the stud.

It shouldn't take more than 1 or 2 blows of the sledge to loosen them.

Jim

 

With all do respect, did you read my post? In it I said that that is how I ALWAYS do it. You are telling me that I cannot do something that I did less than 48 hours ago. Would a utube video convince you? Have you ever tried it? Next thing that I fear is that you are going to tell me that I can't run 100% antifreeze...Mark P.S. Also, anyone that can damage that flange by TAPPING on it , doesn't know the meaning of tapping...

 

hey-Hey!!!,
The cones are *NOT* copper, they're steel...unless Dodge got some of the super-expensive magnetic copper. In any case I found it much easier to tap with a 2 lb. ball peen right over the stud...tap, tap, tap until the cone moves just a bit then spread it with a screwdriver( a #2 flat blade ) and it came apart w/o issue.

On re-assembly, I spread a light coat of Hylomar on the steel gasket. No leaks yet.
cheers,
Douglas

 

Hey guys, we're here to help, not argue over who's idea is better. I've gotten axles loose by hitting straight on and from the side although straight on is usually preferred.

Since I "assumed" that we were dealing with bolts instead of studs because that detail was omitted by the OP, I'll retract my suggestion of using a tap on the side of the cap. If you have a scrap piece of steel or a big nut you can place on the center of the cap to keep the hammer away from the studs, I'd go that way. If not, I'll endorse the chisel idea. If you chisel remember you may have a little deformation of the metal that may need dressing afterwards.

 

I am not saying that my idea is better, I am being told that it does not work or is going to damage my truck. All that I am saying is that, in my experience, that both are false, that is all...Mark

 

easy fix, just add 'what worked for me' ... settles things down pretty good...and LOVE when someone posts a different idea. we all just want the fix without damage, and a little education. no worries. DTR guys are the greatest!



considering we are all trying to get something fixed and I don't know where you are located, here in rusty, big hole roads new york, the 'pop' on the center of the axle with a ten pound maul worked for us as above posted. not like you can re use those cones, neighbor has an '88 and '91 that felt welded indeed. we use a pipe with the flat plate welded on, kind of a town use tool so it happens enough....yes, just a break free hit, not a whoopin'....

ol farmer and tow truck operator- we have to do almost all 'dirt fixes', would love to see better and have a lift for the machine taps to directly check out the action. hopefully, all of these posts help you and you are SAFE, and stress free at the end. post your result if you get the time, man.
Heidi

 

Every good argument needs a cool headed moderator, thank you for that. Cool headed probably has not been used a whole lot in the same sentence as my name. I do live in rust free AZ (hey that would be a good license plate slogan) and ALL of my wrenching experience has been here. Also, the FSM says to use a BAH on the center of the axle, but I found that the lite tap works well for me. It only takes a second, is worth a try and if it doesn't work, move to the BAH...Mark