seems like a dead batt.
This started out a few months ago, I would go to start my truck an the starter would growell like the batt was dead but then it would fire up. Yesterday it just kept growling and finally just started to click, my meter said I had 13 volts so I smacked the starter a few times and started up. I bought a new starter, installed this a.m and had to jump it drove to the job site and now it won't start and my meter still days 12 volts and every thing seems normal. Is is there any relays I could check?
I have seen the battery cable corroded so bad right inside the insulation at the battery that it would do that exact same thing you're describing. Cut the insulation back a little and see if it's green in there, then there's the problem.
It is by far better to re-build your old starter yourself, than to swap it in for one of unknown heritage.
That being said, the cable can be all corroded and still carry enough current to read good on the meter.
That being said, the cable can be all corroded and still carry enough current to read good on the meter.
Yes, like bearkiller said, sorta. Voltage means nothing to your starter, current is what the corrosion will effect. It will have so much resistance that the motor won't spin, but it will still show the correct voltage on a meter.
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To check your positive battery cable: Take your DVOM(Digital Volt Ohm Meter), have it set on volts. Place the Positive lead of the meter on the starter lug. Place the Negative lead on the Positive terminal of your battery. Have a helper turn the key to the start position. Note the voltage. If the voltage is above 0.5 volts then you have resistance within the cable. Ideally what you want to see is 0.2 volts or less.
For the negative cable the test is the same and the results should be the same.
Large cables like battery cables are hard to diagnose with just resistance. For good reading all you need is one strand within the cable to conduct. Using this type of testing on any wire will give you more information about what is really going on within the wire.
For the negative cable the test is the same and the results should be the same.
Large cables like battery cables are hard to diagnose with just resistance. For good reading all you need is one strand within the cable to conduct. Using this type of testing on any wire will give you more information about what is really going on within the wire.
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